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Bricklinking Cafe Corner

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Comments

  • davee123davee123 USAMember Posts: 832
    Currently, does Lego make grey and bley, or just bley? What's Hogwarts?
    LEGO doesn't make "#2 grey" anymore-- they stopped almost all production of "#2 grey" by the end of 2003. Starting in 2004, they replaced "#2 grey" with "#194 medium stone grey". Hogwarts from 2001 is therefore "#2 grey", whereas Hogwarts from 2004, 2007, 2010, or 2011 is "#194 medium stone grey".

    For the record:
    #2 = "Light Gray" on Bricklink = "OldGray" on Peeron
    #194 = "Light Bluish Gray" on Bricklink, = "MdStone" on Peeron

    Some people call #194 "blay", "bley", "light blay", or "light bley", as a combination of "blue" and "grey", but also because it sounds like "bleah" or "blech" or some other form of regurgitation, since the LEGO hobbyist community almost universally despised the 2004 color change.

    At the same time, LEGO also changed "#27 dark grey" (replaced with #199 dark stone grey), and "#25 earth orange" (replaced with #192 reddish brown).

    #25 = "Brown" on Bricklink = "OldBrown" on Peeron
    #27 = "Dark Gray" on Bricklink = "OldDkGray" on Peeron
    #192 = "Reddish Brown" on Bricklink = "RedBrown" on Peeron
    #199 = "Dark Bluish Gray" on Bricklink = "DkStone" on Peeron

    The change in #2/#194 is very difficult to distinguish without proper lighting-- so if you're colorblind, you very well might not even be able to tell the difference.

    The changes for #25 to #192 and for #27 to #199 are easier to see. More likely that you can tell those apart, but it depends on your colorblindness, really...

    DaveE
  • BrickDancerBrickDancer Dunes of TatooineMember Posts: 3,639
    edited June 2012
    @rolvtd I just BL'd GG less than a month ago and can honestly tell you not to do it by floor if you were trying to save money. The shipping costs will kill the price benefit over time. (I have a full cost breakdown for all the pieces to give you an idea, its an XL sheet that I can email if you like). The sandgreen 1x8's are the dealbreaker (~$90 total at current market prices), so start with those. The other sandgreen/dark green can be bought from Lego Replacement Parts dept. for about ~$60.

    My finished cost (after shipping/fees/tax) was about $400 plus $50 for instructions. So just my opinion, but you might be better off buying a MISB one for $550-$600.

    In comparison, I did CC a week or two before that and did it for $300 with only 1 substitution (White Panels without side support). I splurged and paid lots for the right parrots, doors, 2nd floor windows,dark red slopes and dark blue arches, etc. So BL'ing CC is very reasonable and can be done on a modest budget for even less than that, since the colors are all common.
  • CancanCancan Member Posts: 31
    Thanks for the help. I would build it just for our own fun (not for resale or anything) so we may just be going with #2 grey - I think we've got enough 1980s castle to build an actual castle. We'll see what other modifications we come up with. Thanks!
  • rolvtdrolvtd Member Posts: 52
    edited June 2012
    ^^ Thanks for the advice BrickDancer. I was looking to stretch the build over multiple months, but it looks like that could just cost me in the end.
  • 111ins111ins Member Posts: 265
    I would suggest putting the inventory into a wanted list on BL and get the expensive parts and the ones that there are not many sellers for first. Often the rarer part stores will also have parts you will need anyway, so you do not get stuck at the end with 7 rare parts that you need to buy from 7 different stores. If you still end up with a few parts that need several orders, call LEGO and see if you can buy them from the parts replacement department. I am in no way suggesting that you say the parts you need are missing, just let them know what you are doing and that you would like to order a few things to finish it up.
    $0.02
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 0 miles to Legoboy's houseMember Posts: 11,446
    You can order from Lego Replacement Parts?
  • BrickDancerBrickDancer Dunes of TatooineMember Posts: 3,639
    edited June 2012
    ^Yes you can, I did yesterday to finish the Taj Mahal for pieces even Bricklink sellers didn't have. Order total was almost $200, so plenty of parts. This was my 3rd occassion calling RP dept, previous was for CC and GG respectively.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 0 miles to Legoboy's houseMember Posts: 11,446
    Interesting. These are bricks that aren't on PAB?
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 0 miles to Legoboy's houseMember Posts: 11,446
    I can understand "brinklinking" CC because of the high prices for the set. If "bricklinking" GG sets you back $400-500, I would save all the grief and buy a sealed one. If you don't care about the minifigures or the box or instructions then maybe "bricklinking" sounds good.
  • BrickDancerBrickDancer Dunes of TatooineMember Posts: 3,639
    edited June 2012
    ^Yes this is the only way to get pieces that are not on PAB list. I picked up the dark red slopes through RP dept. for about $0.40 each if I recall correctly. The retail prices for certain pieces are actually cheaper through Lego than it is on the BL market going rates. I've noticed this rule obeying the weight of the piece as the driving factor. Such as small pieces (hinge plate assembly in white, 1x2x2 brick in white, etc) that are light on amount of plastic. When it comes to bricks, the bigger the more expensive compared to BL, especially with Technic types. RP and PAB is good for the first (rare/discontinued pieces) & last step (easy acquisition of remaining common pieces to keep total number of sellers low) of a BL project, with middle filled out in bulk by BL sellers to keep costs low. This is because shipping cost of an order through RP is always a flat rate of $2.95 regardless of part count or order value (maybe no tax either).

    After recently 'bricklinking' 4 big projects (CC, GG, Taj, VW Beetle), I would agree it only makes sense for CC at the current market price for these sets as new & sealed. I saved about $400 with CC versus NISB (with figs, but no instructions or box), so definitely worth it. Taj was next closest to making it worthwhile at savings of about $300 versus NISB (with instructions but no box). Then was GG at savings of about $150 (with instructions & figs, but no box). VW Beetle would actually exceed market value of the set as NISB.
  • CoolsplashCoolsplash Member Posts: 935
    Wow @BrickDancer, great job. What was your total cost on the CC, GG and Taj? Do you have full price breakdown for these three??

  • mobrickimobricki Member Posts: 11
    Just bought 36 dark red slopes from TLG for $0.41 a piece much better than bricklink
  • luckyrussluckyruss UKMember Posts: 872
    edited June 2012
    I've also done two and they both cost me about £220. The first one was last year when the price for the 1x4x1 fences were reasonable on bricklink. They are about 17.3p direct from Lego in the UK, but they gave me a max per order of 200. The other more expensive contributors are the baseplates, the 8x16 tiles on the base, the 4 1x16 dark bley technic bricks, and then maybe the 2x2x10 girders and the 1x1-1x1 neck bracket.

    I think I ordered all the tiles from PaB, including the light bley 2x2s, the only significant other factor is just quantity, getting all the 2x2 corners (bricks and plates) costs a few quid even at reasonable price per piece. I think these are all cheaper thru BL than Lego direct.
  • JT32JT32 BasingstokeMember Posts: 124
    if anybody is interested in an completed BL Cafe Corner I've just put an ad in the Marketplace.
  • parkerwilsonparkerwilson Member Posts: 142
    Does RP have the fences, If so I am jumping on board brick-linking the tower. Not that I need another project, still have 10179, cafe corner, and green grocer pieces all sitting in boxes waiting to be built, all were bricklinked. Where am I gonna find the time to build :)
  • BrickDancerBrickDancer Dunes of TatooineMember Posts: 3,639
    ^It's addicting isn't it? But I'm hesitant to tackle 10179, I know that one is gonna hurt. What's been stopping you from building them? I look forward to the moment like it was a special occassion.

    They did (~$0.25) but ran out and I got shorted myself by 100. They'll be restocking it in a couple weeks they said, so they'll fulfill the balance then.
  • leemcgleemcg Member Posts: 607
    Hi everyone

    If anyone is still brick linking Cafe Corner and struggling with the 2x3x1 panels without side supports... I collected a few of these for a moc (little did I know the reason I was finding it so hard to find 'em and the side supports versions just wouldn't have worked).

    Anyhow I have just been looking through a small box of used parts and found that I have 8 of these (with solid studs, no side supports). Free to a good home. Condition wise they don't have obvious scratches, but are clearly used.

    Shame I missed the UK pick 'n' mix, or I could have put them in there.

  • leemcgleemcg Member Posts: 607
    The panels have now gone. Hope they prove useful.
  • Bosstone100Bosstone100 USAMember Posts: 1,434
    Hi guys. Does anyone have two extra hoses for the CC? It's part #75c10? PM me if you can help. Thanks!
  • y2joshy2josh Member Posts: 2,002
    edited July 2012
    Given that I already need to heavily modify Cafe Corner to bring it closer to the standards of later modulars, I'm thinking of Bricklinking one and selling mine before the prices start to fall (which probably isn't any time soon, but still...). My question is, for those who have Bricklinked a Cafe Corner, what are the common substitutions used? I know the arches, the windows and the parrots, but are there any other ridiculously expensive pieces in the set that can be replaced with something just as effective? I figure since my Cafe Corner isn't going to be 100% accurate anyway, I don't care if I have a handful of substitutions.
  • effalconeffalcon Member Posts: 71
    the dark red roof slopes & anything Dark blue
  • jadeirenejadeirene US, CaliforniaMember Posts: 475
    The light bluish gray door can be easily substituted. A new one goes for around $60.
  • DuchessaDuchessa Member Posts: 287
    The white 2x1x3 panels without side support.
  • dougtsdougts Oregon, USAMember Posts: 4,129
    both doors can be changed to the newer 1x6 high door frames with door. since the original doors are only 5 high, some modifications to the surrounding pieces needs to take place, but it isn't too difficult to manage.

    changing the panels above to actual 2x1x3 windows results in some loss of stability without further modifications as well, but it can be done with very minor changes assuming you don't plan on it receiving heavy play. the one central window is the most fragile and might require more substantial structural modifications if you plan to do more than just display (i did no modification at all, and it hasn't fallen apart on me)

    i changed out the dark blue 1x5 round posts to a stack of 1x1 round bricks and I rather liked the look of it.

    i didn't buy the parrots at all but instead used a 1x1 round brick with a 1x1 round tapered brick on top of it and think it looks good as well.
  • BuriedinBricksBuriedinBricks USAMember Posts: 1,367
    Agree with @Duchessa. The prices on the white panels are not too horrible if you only needed a few, but you need 20. They are just not readily available in a very high quantity. I went for the version with side supports, which I believe several others have done as well.

    I also highly recommend skipping the light bley door. They are near impossible to find and most of what's listed is scratched up. I think a black frame looks just as good and it matches up well with the rest of the first floor.
  • BrickDancerBrickDancer Dunes of TatooineMember Posts: 3,639
    Watch out for the 2nd floor windows with shutters (Part 4132 & 4133). There's two types and I believe the incorrect one doesn't fit properly, correct one can be found on ebay at reasonable price. Tan, inverted slope 33 3x2 (Part 3747a) is cheap but hard to find. For the Light Bley door, there is a Left-opening version too in the same color which can be had new for $15 or so.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Cologne/GermanyMember Posts: 1,079
    I'm almost done bricklinking CC without any substitutions (so far!). Since i will own two and want to sell one i have a question for the one to resell:for example the headlight-bricks used to be w/o "slot",nowadays they all come with a small slot so for you as a potential collector/buyer would it make a difference to have them with slots included? I know it's some kind of substitution but would it be worth mentioning in the item-descritption when up for sale?
  • forumreaderforumreader Member Posts: 97
    Having sold several Bricklinked modulars I've found it best to do full disclosure on any subbed parts. Most buyers don't seemed to mind, as long as it's mentioned up front.
  • harrelmusicharrelmusic Member Posts: 65
    Not only is it good to disclose so no buyer is surprised, but it also lets potential buyers know just how careful you've been in putting these together. Just mentioning it should make anyone feel confident buying from you.
  • LegoFanTexasLegoFanTexas TexasMember Posts: 8,409
    I personally wouldn't mind either, so long as I was told up front.

    I just finished building a non-bricklinked CC, the parts are indeed original, everything was there, but the overall clutch power of some of the parts was terrible, either it was too hot at some point, or played with too much, or what, I don't know...

    I actually had to replace a number of parts, basic stuff like a 2x2 black brick and 1x1 dark bley flat tile, because they had zero clutch power.

    But I did it get complete with instructions for a reasonable price, so oh well... :)
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 0 miles to Legoboy's houseMember Posts: 11,446
    I personally don't have the time to Bricklink anything. I would buy one second hand. I wouldn't mind if some parts were substituted, as long as it was disclosed. I would want a complete model though.

    I think CC will be a strong seller, Bricklinked, used and sealed. Basically UCS MF of the unlicensed themes.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Cologne/GermanyMember Posts: 1,079
    Thanks for all your comments on my question! I wasn't really sure if a "substitute"like headlight-brick with slot is even worth mentioning but i guess it is;)
    The same goes for jumper-plates with and w/o groove,most people would never realize,but some would!
  • doriansdaddoriansdad CTCMember Posts: 1,337
    Diggydoes said:

    Thanks for all your comments on my question! I wasn't really sure if a "substitute"like headlight-brick with slot is even worth mentioning but i guess it is;)
    The same goes for jumper-plates with and w/o groove,most people would never realize,but some would!

    TLG does not produce a slotted headlight brick. This is a manufacturing defect. Even alot of the older headlight bricks have this slot or ones that are partially slotted. I would mention other substitutes tho that are not the correct pieces.
  • DeckerDecker Member Posts: 65
    Hey guys... I am recently out of my Dark Age and I missed out on the early modular buildings. I am thinking of BLing 10185 as I think its a nice looking model and would fit in really well with the city I have been building. I was planning on using a combination of the Lego Parts replacement service and BL. The first hurdle I see is that the sand green 1x8's are not available via the replacement service and they are very pricey on BL. What I wanted to know is, strictly from a structural integrity standpoint, would there be any problems replacing each of the 1x8 with 2 1x4's. I can get enough 1x4s to do it for about 1/5th the cost of the 1x8's. Thoughts?

  • y2joshy2josh Member Posts: 2,002
    Shouldn't be an issue structurally - your walls will just have a 'brickier' look to them.
  • dougtsdougts Oregon, USAMember Posts: 4,129
    I did this with mine using 1x4s, 1x3s, 1x2s in place of the 1x8s - no problems at all
  • DeckerDecker Member Posts: 65
    Perfect. That's pretty much what I figured. Thanks for the input.
  • RainingBoroSi02RainingBoroSi02 NCMember Posts: 59
    edited November 2012
    For sure, replace with 1x4s. My only comment is that on the back and sides, the line up looks a bit odd. But if you are connecting it to other modulars, it looks good. Good luck!
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