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My Winter Village Project

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  • ModeltrainmanModeltrainman Reading my Bible, sorting and buildingMember Posts: 998
    edited November 2021
    @Switchfoot55, it almost looks like the cylinders don't give the front truck enough room to move. It looks like only slight movement. I'd try to put the rear wheels on their own bogie, personally, and put the cylinders at least a plate higher.(It'd make rivet counters cringe, but if it runs, it'd be better. They look like they, at best scrape the front truck too much.

  • eMJeeNLeMJeeNL The NetherlandsMember Posts: 706
    So, I've finally taken the time to expand my WV Train Engine to match the scale of my other cars. However, I've ran into an issue with the spacing of my wheels around corners. @Modeltrainman has been very helpful in problem solving some solutions, but I'm still having issues. 

    The front wheels are the original design on a bogie. The rear two wheels have the same spacing as the front (7 Technic pin holes), but are fixed. When it comes to a corner, the wheels won't stay on. 

    I've played with making the rear wheels on a bogie too but can't seem to get things just right.

    Any recommendations for what to try? 


    Can't you use the "unflanged" wheels as the first set?
  • bricktuarybricktuary Krakozhia (temporarily stuck in London)Member Posts: 949
    Look at this shambles. I'm embarrassed guys.


    autolycus560HeliportBumblepantsOnebricktoomanyWesterBricks
  • KungFuKennyKungFuKenny Somewhere between Ice Station Odyssey and FabulandMember Posts: 2,367
    bandit778 said:
    Look at this shambles. I'm embarrassed guys.


    That's not a shambles, that's a project. 😁
    I was about to say that’s not a shambles, that’s an opportunity!
    bandit778560Heliportgmonkey76OnebricktoomanyWesterBricks
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    So, I've tried replacing the middle large wheel with the unflanged sleeper wheels and am able to get it to roll across the tracks. However, there does seem to be a lot more resistance around the corners. The rear most flanged wheels are just at an odd angle. 

    Along with this, I've removed the restrictions of the front bogie with the cylinders. It gives maybe a small amount of freedom in the curve, but still seems to be limited by the rear most. 

    I guess I can play with a bogie setup for the rear pair of wheels (flanged or unflanged). Guess I didn't realize this would give me so many fits. 
    eMJeeNL
  • Lo1sJessLo1sJess Alexandria, VirginiaMember Posts: 219
    Those shambles look pretty good to me!
  • Lo1sJessLo1sJess Alexandria, VirginiaMember Posts: 219
    I’ll just wait for your train to get sorted then I can just copy it when I look to motorize mine🙂
    Switchfoot55Fizyx560Heliport
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    Look at this shambles. I'm embarrassed guys.


    Just ship it my way, and I'll help you sort it all out. You'll get it back sometime in January . . . ;)
    Switchfoot55KungFuKenny560Heliportbandit778eMJeeNLbricktuaryvanvonfull
  • bandit778bandit778 Docking Bay 94. Member Posts: 2,347
    So, I've tried replacing the middle large wheel with the unflanged sleeper wheels and am able to get it to roll across the tracks. However, there does seem to be a lot more resistance around the corners. The rear most flanged wheels are just at an odd angle. 

    Along with this, I've removed the restrictions of the front bogie with the cylinders. It gives maybe a small amount of freedom in the curve, but still seems to be limited by the rear most. 

    I guess I can play with a bogie setup for the rear pair of wheels (flanged or unflanged). Guess I didn't realize this would give me so many fits. 
    Silly question but as you look to be running a tight circle of track, have you tried leaving the front driver wheels wheels as flanged wheels and replacing the rears with the blind drivers so the wheelbase connected to the track is shorter?
    eMJeeNL
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    ^I hadn't thought of that. I'll give that a go today and see how it works out. 

    I put together the base of my village last night and tried the train with the front wheels as the flangless set. It worked around the corner, but then would derail the engine in the transition between the corner and straight. I eventually just took that set of wheels off completely so it's just the front bogie wheels and the very rear most wheels. It made all the curves and straights, but still had a bit of resistance around the curves. Perhaps the solution above gets me to that happy medium where it all comes together!
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    Table is up and initial work done. You can see my ballasted tracks as one of my biggest new updates. Still a ton a work to be done, but excited to see it moving forward!

    Adding some extra space to the right as I'll need a little more space. If we weren't stuck in a rental with limited space I'd just get a larger board. Goals for next year I guess...


    Your track crew does an incredible job keeping it clear of snow and ice! :)

    Setup is looking good, as always!
    Switchfoot55
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    ^I have additional greebling to add to it to fill it out a bit more and bring some interest/snow to the mix. 

    I do pay them extra to keep it snow-free, however!
  • bricktuarybricktuary Krakozhia (temporarily stuck in London)Member Posts: 949
    Some progress...


    I am missing the train though. That's annoying to say the least.


    Not pictured: three ziplock bags of 'bits'.


    Switchfoot55KungFuKennyCymbelinevizzitorsnowhitie
  • Lo1sJessLo1sJess Alexandria, VirginiaMember Posts: 219
    Hope you find the train.  It looks good to me.  Looking forward to seeing more pics as it all comes together.

    lois
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    @Switchfoot55 Is your track "floating" on tiles?

    I stumbled on an absolutely incredible set of WV MILS components: https://www.flickr.com/photos/brixtof/

    Gives me some serious aspirations for the future, but that's probably years off before I can build up the nerve to dive into full MILS modules like that. It makes a ton of sense though! I'm probably like most on here, for now it's ambitious enough just to get all of my WV sets assembled and placed on the same table! heheh

    But I will definitely keep in mind the way he "sank" the road and has the sets floating on tiles so they can be placed easily but without the strain of binding the full building's plates onto other plates.
    KungFuKenny
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    ^No, not floating on tiles. I had considered it, but didn't want to have to raise the rest of the tracks up one more plate to account for the curve tiles. With how I have my white plates positioned around the curve, it helps keep it locked in pretty tight. There are one or two places that have a little bounce, but not enough to impact the train's performance. 

    I plan on moving toward a MILS setup with my village at some point the in the future. Definitely not this year, and likely not next. I need a new table base as my current set up has tracks positioned oddly between baseplates, building straddling connection points, etc... 

    BUT, one day, I'll make it happen! 


    On a related WV note, last night I started the WV Cider Mill by Miro (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-19433/Miro/winter-village-cider-mill/#details)

    It is significantly larger than I anticipated. Should end up dwarfing even the Cottage, Fire Station, and Gingerbread House. I'll have to think creatively on how and where to put it. That said, it is an absolutely beautiful model!

    Pictures to follow. 
    autolycusKungFuKenny
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    ^No, not floating on tiles. I had considered it, but didn't want to have to raise the rest of the tracks up one more plate to account for the curve tiles. With how I have my white plates positioned around the curve, it helps keep it locked in pretty tight. There are one or two places that have a little bounce, but not enough to impact the train's performance. 

    I plan on moving toward a MILS setup with my village at some point the in the future. Definitely not this year, and likely not next. I need a new table base as my current set up has tracks positioned oddly between baseplates, building straddling connection points, etc... 

    BUT, one day, I'll make it happen! 


    On a related WV note, last night I started the WV Cider Mill by Miro (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-19433/Miro/winter-village-cider-mill/#details)

    It is significantly larger than I anticipated. Should end up dwarfing even the Cottage, Fire Station, and Gingerbread House. I'll have to think creatively on how and where to put it. That said, it is an absolutely beautiful model!

    Pictures to follow. 
    So your curves are just loose on top of the baseplates, with your straights locked in? Last year I ended up just having my track sitting on the table with no baseplate below it at all. I'm trying to debate what interim steps I want to take for "upgrading" my setup gradually toward actually being on a proper baseplate grid.
  • Lo1sJessLo1sJess Alexandria, VirginiaMember Posts: 219
    What is MILS please?
    ktsam
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    @Lo1sJess, check this out for some detailed information -> http://www.abellon.net/MILS/

    In a brief summary, it's a modular style baseplate layout. Often times 32x32 base plates with a layer of bricks on the outside edge that can be locked together with technic pins. It opens up a lot of possibilities in designing a layout. Portability, collaborations with others, easier storage, etc...

    @autolycus, yes, my straights are pushed down onto the baseplates so it's just the 4 curves between the straights that are floating. Without my ballast the curves definitely buckled/bounced a bit more. The ballast has significantly helped with stability. You could always consider using some jumper plates around the curve to lock them down a bit more. This video has a shot of some possible connection points around the curve at around 3:45 
    autolycusFizyxBrickfan50
  • eMJeeNLeMJeeNL The NetherlandsMember Posts: 706
    That looks cool @gratefulnat ! Could use some more cars, though - I really dig the sausage one!
  • gratefulnatgratefulnat SwitzerlandMember Posts: 383
    @eMJeeNL trains definitely need cars, the more the merrier! I hope to get some sort of track laid out in my new LEGO room, along with my Christmas set up, for the first time this year as I finally have the space to do so.
    560HeliportKungFuKennySwitchfoot55
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    Thanks for the tip, @gratefulnat! I'll have a look through those instructions to see what I can learn. 

    @eMJeeNL, I love the new sets this year! Depending on how much room I have in my new house, and how much my wife will allow me to expand it, I may have to pull the trigger on those amusement park rides after all!


    Pictures to come, but I did some more work on the village last night. All of the major buildings have their final resting places. My wife helped again in extending the main road to the new Cider Mill and filling in some more snow greebling. I worked on dropping some figs into the scene as well. 

    Up next is Santa's Visit and Santa's Sleigh!
    evantylerKungFuKennyWhiteDoveCymbeline
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    Thanks for the tip, @gratefulnat! I'll have a look through those instructions to see what I can learn. 

    @eMJeeNL, I love the new sets this year! Depending on how much room I have in my new house, and how much my wife will allow me to expand it, I may have to pull the trigger on those amusement park rides after all!


    Pictures to come, but I did some more work on the village last night. All of the major buildings have their final resting places. My wife helped again in extending the main road to the new Cider Mill and filling in some more snow greebling. I worked on dropping some figs into the scene as well. 

    Up next is Santa's Visit and Santa's Sleigh!
    Snow greebling and things like snowy roadways are the main reason I'm considering doing MILS. Two big advantages there: 1) I can work on that stuff in a much smaller space and while watching tv with my wife 2) I only have to do it once for a baseplate-sized area... The more I think about this, the more I worry that I need to start planning in the new year for next year, so I can at least have the parts I need to build up the MILS base, even if I'm not doing much more than placing stuff on top next year. And so I have a better idea of what pieces I need to start grabbing from the PAB wall when I'm in the store.
    Switchfoot55
  • Lo1sJessLo1sJess Alexandria, VirginiaMember Posts: 219
    what would what would one be ideally be?  Would you start with a baseplate or plates?  You would need to use bricks with the technic pin holes on sides so you would end up at least 4plates high plus baseplate or 5 plates high in total…..
    wondering because I am just starting my winter village so if desirable as I think it would be I could implement from the beginning.  Need help identifying what would be best.
    thanks!
    autolycus
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    I'll speak from my lack of experience with MILS (others, feel free to correct/shame me if I'm wrong). 

    From what I understand, there is a baseplate first, a layer of bricks, then a layer of plates. So it would be 4 plates or 1 1/3 bricks high plus the thickness of the baseplate. You then obviously build up from there. I feel like I've seen some MILS segments that actually build down into the brick thickness of the segment. I'd plan on doing this for streams/ponds to give some additional dimension and not have to build up the rest of the segment around it quite as much to get the same effect. 

    I've been slowing collecting 16x16 white plates. I tend to add 4-8 on every BnP order. I also currently am building off of 48x48 gray baseplates, but would like my modules to ideally be smaller for the sake of storage. I need to snag a bunch of 32x32 if I go that direction. Perhaps I'll start watching OfferUp or Facebook Marketplace for someone offloading a bunch?
    autolycusKungFuKennybandit778
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    I definitely like the idea of building down into the MILS primary layer for ponds and maybe even a road. For the road it would add to the illusion of a significant snow layer. If I do MILS for my WV, I plan to have the fire station’s skating rink set down one plate level, for sure. The ice skating promo may have to set into the side of a hill though. Not sure if I would be as successful integrating it though.
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    I had some time this morning, so I got started on the Gingerbread House. 3 bags in so far. This will probably be my last time building this set for a few years. 

    I also got started on my 2nd annual viewing of Lord of the Rings (extended, of course). It's perfect for background material since I've seen it and read the book(s) enough that I don't need to focus on every little detail.

    My big problem is that Ikea still doesn't have the drop-leaf table I want to use for my WV setup, and the UCS MF is currently sitting on the tv cart I have used for the WV in the past. The local Ikea said they expect more this week. crossing fingers...
    Switchfoot55bandit778KungFuKennysnowhitie
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    Hogsmeade! I knew I had another set to build in preparation for setting up my table.

    On the table front… IKEA is no longer sure when they’re getting more of the table I want. If no joy on their webpage by tomorrow afternoon, I’m going to have to move forward with my setup from last year, which means moving the Falcon upstairs. I dread that quite a bit!!!
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    Best wishes @autolycus! If you have to move it, hopefully you can manage it in less than 12 parsecs? 

    @bandit778, that clear technic beam setup you have for your Santa is impressive! 

    @milamber, I have always enjoyed your stone church build! Glad you were able to get things out of storage at least and reassemble a bit!
    autolycusDjblythe05KungFuKennybandit778
  • autolycusautolycus US-SEMember Posts: 1,289
    Best wishes @autolycus! If you have to move it, hopefully you can manage it in less than 12 parsecs? 

    @bandit778, that clear technic beam setup you have for your Santa is impressive! 

    @milamber, I have always enjoyed your stone church build! Glad you were able to get things out of storage at least and reassemble a bit!
    I did, indeed, manage to do it in less than 12 parsecs! My WV setup will be mostly complete by the end of the day. I have left a space for Santa's Visit, assuming it fits! 30"x40" is just not a ton of space with how much a basic oval track takes up.

    I really need a bigger layout. One more WV set, plus the BDP chalet will simply not fit. Hopefully Ikea gets the Norden gateleg table in stock at some point. I waited too late this year, clearly. I will plan ahead better next year, so the table is in hand and constructed well in advance.

    I've also started my Bricklink wish lists for a more... robust... layout than just some track and sets spread around willy-nilly. First set of orders will probably be for track ballast. I'm leaning toward just standard DBG for the ballast and reddish brown for the ties plus a variety of white 1x1 and 1x2 pieces to add some snow and ice details to the track. I really need to start collecting from the PAB wall at my local store. Anything white that might make nice snow effects . . .
    dpa1
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    I'll get some photos up here soon of the current state of my layout and my ballasted tracks. Honestly, I can never go back to normal tracks as I think the ballasted look is way superior to unballasted. But, I also get the investment is not for everyone as it's not exactly cheap. 
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    Are those lights from a specific lighting kit? Or some alternative you've used? 

    I've decided my project for next year will be to formalize my lighting plan. Some of these new "wireless" LEDs are definitely grabbing my attention as an option. 
    autolycus
  • bricktuarybricktuary Krakozhia (temporarily stuck in London)Member Posts: 949
    These are incredible, love them all.

    I have some updates. Firstly, I found the train, I'd even motorised it which is great.

    But then we also accidentally used the Ultimate Weapon and summoned Meowthra. Two of them in fact.
    (Yes, we got cats)

    So, long story short, the WV is currently back in boxes pending finding a new site where it won't be destroyed by feline monsters.
    FizyxCymbelineInfinitymaneMJeeNL560HeliportKungFuKenny
  • InfinitymanInfinityman United StatesMember Posts: 123
    Are those lights from a specific lighting kit? Or some alternative you've used? 

    I've decided my project for next year will be to formalize my lighting plan. Some of these new "wireless" LEDs are definitely grabbing my attention as an option. 
    I just used lights from Department 56 - they have little houses to decorate too! Add the interior lights this year and built housings so they could attach inside the buildings: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0012DNV6Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
    560Heliport
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    Looking great!

    I forgot I had intended to post some of the updates/part changes I made to the Ice Sculpture Contest MOC on Rebrickable. I don't have an exhaustive list currently available of everything that I swapped, but a few items worth noting: 

    The pieces used for the base do not fully connect in the "top left" corner of the set if looking at it from the top down. Granted, I had subbed some parts for what I had on hand, but the wedge plate doesn't really lock in. I ended up using some curved slopes to get everything anchored in and playing nice. 

    Perhaps the biggest issue is the top half of the angel. The base is built from 2x2 45' sloped bricks. Then the rock panel piece sets onto the slopes. However, the rest of the angel is a sub build that is "placed into" the rock panel. There are no studs inside the panel for the bottom brick of the torso to lock onto. And, due to the weight of the wings, the torso simply falls backward. My in-the-moment fix was to move the back 2x2 45' Slope brick back one stud. I then filled the 1x2 hole in between the slopes with two 1x1 Trans-Light Blue Round Bricks. I put two 1x1 trans-light blue round plates on top of the 2x2 45' Sloped brick, and then attached the back half of the torso to those two studs and had the other two "sitting on top" of the back portion of the rock panel. 

    Confused? I can try to take more detailed pictures if anyone needs them. 

    I also moved the 4th pillar (if the far left is number 1) back a stud because of the above actions. 

    I swapped the black tube that the lights are attached to for a string with studs and bars that I had on hand. At the same time, I played around with the snow effects at the top of the pillars as well and added wreaths to the front of the further left and right. 

    There were also a few substitutes in the Ice Castle set up, mainly due to part availability and what I had on hand. I used 4L Trans-light Blue bars instead of 3L. I also used trans-light blue pyramid 1x1 bricks instead of the trans-clear flower pieces. I used trans-clear antenna in place of the Trans-Clear wands. The 2x4 domed brick as well was too hard/expensive to get, so I used a couple more slopes I had. It's hidden enough that you can't really tell. The 1x1 Red Studs on 4 sides brick is also very expensive. I used a LBG brick I had on hand as it's just for the chain saw and not that big of a deal in the end. 

    I'm beyond thrilled with the end result. It just so happens that a minifig can fit inside the two rock panels on the right. So Emmett, complete with a screaming face, has found himself trapped in the ice. 

    Again, I can get some photos up if anyone likes. But a very enjoyable build to add to the village! Let me know if you have questions!
    dpa1KungFuKenny
  • Lo1sJessLo1sJess Alexandria, VirginiaMember Posts: 219
    Pics would be great!
  • Switchfoot55Switchfoot55 The Northwest, USAMember Posts: 2,877
    @eMJeeNL, those MOCs all look great in the mix. I particularly enjoy the Fire Station, Eggnogery, and Corner Grocer ones. They've been added to the list!

    You keep tempting me with those amusement rides too! 
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