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How much do you spend on Lego? Tips on buying?
I am in my last year of high school and would still love to buy Lego. I want to know how much you spend on Lego out of your budget (percentage wise) and tips on buying, so I can continue buying.
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Comments
As far as tips go. See if you can get a toys r us credit card. Shop there on Thursdays and also currently on saturdays. You get 10% off. Also you can stack the monthly 20% off coupon with it. Take a picture of it on you're phone and show the your phone each time. With this method you can only save 30% on one item at a time.
Save and spend as much as your budget allows you to without having to live off a 20kg bag of potatoes for a month (unless of course you are happy to do that).
If you have a budget plan for each month, work out how much you could put aside without having to lower your living standard, or see if there is something you could manage a little better / spend less on each month.
Most sets are hardly *must buy* sets if you think about it. And those that are *must buy sets* to you you should place on a wishlist and wait and see when the oportunity arises to purchase. Wait for good offers don't impulse buy!
Lego/toys would probably account for ~5% of our income, but I have 2 young boys.
Now if I project that to 2016, will that cover what I aim to buy?
- CMF: $4 X 16 X 3 = $192
- Mixels: $5 X 9 X 3 = $135
- Modular building = $160
- Super hero set: $50 X 10 = $500
- Holiday sets: $100
- Train: $200
- Ghostbusters: $350
- City: $50 X 5 = $250
- Speed Champion: $200
- SDCC: $200 X 2 = $400
- Star Wars = $200
- Minecraft = $150
Total ~ $2850
I do sell some of my new and used sets that I don't want anymore, so that helps to make a dent in the Lego budget. I've phased out many themes my kids have no interest in (i.e. Hero Factory, Cars, Duplo, Ninjago) and replaced them with ones they actively want (i.e. Minecraft, Speed Racers, Mixels).
On on a limited budget I would manage your existing collection to help acquire new sets.
(Unless that piece of plastic is LEGO. Then I totally take back my statement.)
As you're just coming out of high school, now is the time to set yourself up for the future. Once you graduate from college or trade school or whatever and get a steady job, I highly recommend you put 10% (or as close to that as possible) of your income in some type of retirement account, either 401k from work or an IRA yourself. Once you have this established, then you can start budgeting for LEGO. Trust me, you don't want to be awash in LEGO but have nothing saved for later!
That said, if LEGO is your passion, even when you're in school you'll probably find a way to cut back on other types of entertainment to make sure you have a little money every month for LEGO. But as others said, don't go into debt for your hobby, and make sure to put something aside every month for retirement once you have some income!
A note about this. If you don't have a card with decent points or cashback, you are using the wrong card. Using point cards and paying them off every month is one of the easiest ways to make money on this planet.
Once you've got the essentials covered just spend whatever's left on Lego. Don't worry about trying to keep up with what other people are doing. Everyone's priorities are different and we don't all buy/build the same way. Some people buy "sets" and keep them as intact as possible. Some people never buy retail Lego and instead just buy parts on Bricklink. You need to figure out what approach works best for you.
Also, don't worry about "must-have" sets. As a child, it's possible you'll miss out on certain things. For a few years, after the first Millennium Falcon retired and before the 2nd came out, there was no Millennium Falcon. I'm sure some kids missed out on getting a Falcon, because they entered their dark ages before the next one came out. But as an adult you have time to wait for a re-release. Not every set gets re-released but there are always great new sets that will fill the niche. Missed out on the Horizon Express train? Odds are a new train will come out in the next year or two. Etc. Just be patient and don't waste your precious cash on old sets. Often the newer sets are better designed anyway: Lego's designers have learned a lot from the AFOL community in the last 15 years.
Finally, re: credit cards: Definitely use one that earns points as long as you never, ever carry a balance. Always pay it off each month. Pay it off each day, if that helps you budget better. (I used to pay my credit card bill online when I got home from making a purchase). If you pay off the card, you'll get free points and pay no fees/penalties. As soon as you carry a balance you're screwed. Don't ever do that. Chop up the cards if you can't stop yourself.
This doesn't work anymore with the low interest rates post-2008 BUT before that, when you could easily earn 6% interest on 2-3 year CD accounts, I used to make quite a bit of money on credit cards.
It works like this:
1. open credit card account with at least 1 year of 0% promotional APR on purchases.
2. max it out.
3. use the cash you would have otherwise spent on the purchases to open a CD account.
4. make your monthly minimum payments throughout the promotional period.
5. close CD account and get your money + interest.
6. pay credit card.
7. enjoy the interest courtesy of the credit card company.
If you have good credit you can be earning interest on tens of thousands of someone else's money. Something to consider for the next cycle...
It requires discipline but it is very satisfying!
I have a method to get about $20-$30 of Lego free every month. Bing Rewards. I never see it mentioned, so either people aren't aware of it or just don't want to bother with it. The Bing search engine has a built in rewards program that gives a point for every 2 searches you do. You can exchange the points for various rewards, but the best one is $5 Amazon gift cards. You are allowed up to 5 accounts per household, I only use 4. Doing searches on your PC will get you 15-20 points a day. You can also get another 10 points for mobile searches. So between 4 accounts I get about $1 a day. It may not seem like much, but it adds up. In the past couple years I've gotten about $400+ of gift cards, and therefore about $400+ of free Lego.
It takes a little bit of work at the beginning. You'll need a Microsoft account for each Bing rewards account you set up. You'll also need an email account to set up the Microsoft account.
Here's the method I've used. Create 4 new profiles in Google Chrome, along with a gmail account for each. With one account go to Bing and sign up for the rewards program. It'll have you sign up for a Microsoft account and then Bing rewards, that should be about all you'll need for the first account(it's been awhile since I've done a new one so some details may have changed) Now you should find a link that says "refer a friend" click it and find the lengthy URL that looks like this
( https://www.bing.com/explore/rewards?PUBL=REFERAFRIEND&CREA=RAW&rrid=_7ed4b7a2-16f0-9776-30e6-6efd1690c84a ) email this link to your 3 other new gmail accounts and then sign up for Bing rewards using that referal link. You'll eventually earn even more points for that first account.
The reason to use separate chrome accounts is to avoid having to log in and out of separate Bing accounts, since chrome and Bing will remember your log in details.
A few other tips-
You can do 30 searches in under a minute if you
1. Disable search suggestions
2. Enter a long search term or a random bunch of letters
3.Use tab to highlight the search terms
4.press the right arrow key to put the cursor at the end of the search terms
5. press delete to remove one letter from your search
6. press return to do a new search
7. Get good at this pattern of key presses and finish 120 unique searches in under 5 minutes a day
8. Don't try and use a bot or cheat to do the searches- they are able to tell and will ban your account
The link I put in above is a referal link from me, use it if you want, or not.
Good luck
The only catch is that it requires discipline to break from the herd mentality. While you gain insight into present deals and tricks, you are surrounded by people spending money and jumping up and down over the latest "great deal". It can be a challenge to pass on buying a set you have marginal interest in at a great price.
If you ever find yourself using a credit card for the credit part, you should cut it up immediately.
I do about £1K per month on mine. At any time I am normally at least £1K in debt but then my balance might also be £2K if I look just before a payment is made. Simply because it can be up to six weeks before I have to pay the bill from when I spend. The debt isn't cleared until the middle of the month after I make the spend. Yet I always pay it off fully.
It also then depends on whether you average over everyone, or everyone with a credit card, or everyone with a credit card that does not pay off the full balance each month.
There was this report in the Guardian not long ago ...
http://www.theguardian.com/money/2015/mar/23/average-uk-household-owe-10000-debt-by-end-2016
The average credit card balance stood at £1,021 by the end of 2014, just £39 short in cash terms of its all-time high at the beginning of 2010.
Presumably from the wording that is the average over all (active?) credit cards, not people. It is not surprising. I am constantly that much "in debt", despite paying it off every month. Although I have another 4 or 5 old cards that are never used with zero balance. So should that bring the average down to £200 per card? Again, dodgy reporting without declaring how numbers are measured can totally distort the facts rendering them almost meaningless.
Especially for a student who is likely to finish school with a 30,000 Student Load debt and who, if he or she has to pay a monthly credit card bill on top of that and may find him or herself out of work for 2 or 3 months (due to no fault of their own) might easily slide into a downward spiral of simply having ot pay the interest on the debt rather than actually being able to reduce the debt itself.
Telling a stundent to use a credit card is simply idiotic imo, no matter how good with money they may be.
But I've also seen the other side of the story. I knew someone who secretly built up lots of credit card debt, across multiple cards, and ended up killing himself because he didn't want anyone to know and couldn't cope with it on his own. Even his wife had no idea until it was too late. He wasn't working but she didn't know that. He just wanted to keep her happy with the spending levels she had become accustomed to, and there was a point at which it no longer became possible to borrow more money to pay off other debts. A proper out of control spiral. I also know someone who got themselves into a similar predicament, and I only found out about it by chance due to some misdirected mail. They were struggling pretty badly, but a couple of years later, they have now turned things around (with some help) and I'm pretty sure they won't be getting a credit card again any time soon.
I reserve credit cards mainly for essential purposes, unless I know I have the cash to pay off a luxury item I'm putting on there right away. It is very easy to get caught up in the "too good to pass up" deals on LEGO that appear every once in awhile, and credit cards can be dangerous there.
The biggest thing that has helped me has been to set priorities and try to stick to them. The majority of my building anymore is for MOCs, so most of my budget goes to BL sellers and my annual lugbulk buy. I've tried very hard to get away from the "buy it because its cheap" mentality.
Anyway, I agree, people should budget for what they can and buy from there. I have spent more on LEGO lately than I normally have, but as a whole for the year I'd say I spend less and less each year. Granted, it is still probably equivalent to $75 a month, even though I don't buy LEGO every month.
As for our household Lego budget, the less said, the better. My advice, don't pay retail, ever, if it can be helped & I'm not just talking Lego here.