Was wondering if there is anyone doing this. I seldomly come across adds like this.
Bricklinking old and popular sets with some small modifications if necessary. Eifel tower, statue of liberty,green dragon,cafe corner,ucs star destroyer,ucs death star 1,ucs millennium falcon.
Quiet a few people bricklink sets like these for themselves. Its a lot of work but the end result can be very satisfying. Was thinking that there might be a rather large market for doing this work for other people and sell bricklinked eol sets. I know that I for myself would be interested in several sets and willing to pay for the effort people make to bricklink them as long as the price is considerably cheaper then the price of the sealed eol set on the secondary market. The demand for sets like this could be so large that it might be worth doing this on a semi professional scale.
Am wondering what peoples thoughts are about this.
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I'm very new to BL, was only introduced to it in the last week or so... So I'm not sure how cost effective it would be for all parties concerned. But I'd definitely buy if it was as you described.
I could either bricklink in advance and then sell, but let say the Eiffel tower cost $600 to BL, how much do you sell it ? $800 ? If you invest those $600 on other sets, like 4 modulars, it is much less work and probably a much better return.
Or you can propose to Bricklink it for someone for $800, someone buys it and they you realize that a part needed 200+ times is not produced anymore and you have to pay an extra 50c/$1 per part.
Third is not everyone will agree on substitution level, like the Grand Carousel, I used tent cloth that I made myself, I kept the Jester's cap despite the price, but changed the dark red to dark purple.
However I would be in favor a thread, where someone could announce that s/he is going to BL a set (with listed substitutions) and asking if anyone would be interested for $xx for BL twice the pieces (ouch I can't think having 12000 parts layed out for 2 Taj Mahal :) )
Plus, I've bricklinked a few sets. It is a lot more legwork than you realize if you haven't done it before. And I agree, you'll always end up substituting parts and not everyone will like that. Most people want the official set. Many would also like the instructions at the very least.
I don't think it is worthwhile from a business standpoint.
I only order from BrickLink and LEGO B&P or PAB. I can emphasis enough how BrickStock make the experience so much easier, It takes me now less than 30 minutes to create all orders for a 2000+ parts set.
Some had a lot of substitutions (like VW Bettle was done in white/red instead of blue/dark blue, Green Grocer done in Sand Blue), most of them only had few pieces substituted (Taj Mahal, Cafe Corner, Eiffel Tower).
You also get to change parts for better display, like my UCS Snowspeeder is using new grays (like the rest of my UCS collection) while the original had old grays.
Bottom line is that I got to enjoy the same build experience at a fraction of the cost than the used set. Also bricklinking a set has an extra excitement that you don't find when buy a complete set... seeing those package trickling in and that parts list growing to completion (but may be that just me ;-).
From there you can load the part list from a set, update with BL prices, makes substitutions (based on prices or other factors), create your wanted list for Bricklink, import BL orders (so you can update you part list after each order and recreate another wanted list)
For example, Part 30179 Door Frame 1 x 4 x 6, the BL catalog will point you to the very similar part 60596 and you can save tons.
Another trick is not to buy the complete minifigs, part them out in a hared, torso, etc, they could be cheaper in the end and may be find a 25c torso will look as good as the $25 one.
Last is to always check P&B and PAB on lego.com, while most of the parts are more expensive, some are cheaper there. Also if you need 200 parts and no seller has more than 10, you may be better to put a few extra cents per part with LEGO as you'll save a lot on S&H.