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UCS AT-AT ready for duty....



    Having not the brick or willpower to attempt such a feat myself, the engineering part of my brain wonders what the actual clutch power of every individual brick and pin (due to age/amount of wear/relative humidity/ you name it!), in every individuals build, has to play in the overall equation? It seems as though everyone has had to come up with relatively unique solutions to relatively similar (on the surface at least) problems... My hat is off to you gents - may your walkers ever remain upright!
  • cavegodcavegod Member Posts: 806
    How i assemble the atat

    Sides on the body
    Position the legs the feet closets together have the toes two studs apart
    Attach body to legs
    Align the legs so they are not bowing and that the body is level
    Attach the neck to body
    Attach head with a good shsrp push to lock the pins
    Place all roof panels on

    Looking at the pics did you not brace the back of the neck with the two red lift arms?

    Have you got the 1/2 pins in bottom back of neck to make it sit level when head is on?

    I will be modding the legs soon to make them more stable.
  • BooTheMightyHamsterBooTheMightyHamster Northern edge of London, just before the dragons...Member Posts: 1,311
    edited January 2015
    I've been following this thread with interest. Can't see me ever building one myself, but quite happy to live vicariously through those who take the plunge.

    Just on the 'collapsing while you're working on it' point, how solid is the body? Just wondered whether you could build two structures (maybe out of some sort of construction toy?) one on either side, then run a few lines of string between them, passing underneath the body. That way, if a leg gives way, you have a safety net to hold the main build up - might only hold for a few seconds, but that could be enough to make the difference between one detached leg and a complete rebuild.

    I can see how it might also just get in the way though.
  • graphitegraphite USMember Posts: 3,248
    I added a few extra 'L' technic beams in the body structure to add some more rigidity which ended up helping when 2 of the legs toppled while I was trying to put the body on since I was using the structure as a handle.
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    @samiam391‌ yes, you should pre-bend in the from and back of the sides before putting them on.

    @cavegod‌ I tried (once) to lift the body with the sides on and it was too heavy to hold up by the "lift handle". It was a mini-catastrophe. Also since I do it myself, often while standing on a chair, it's a little much to hold steady in mid air while I get the legs all attached. Please do share how you strengthen the legs when you get around to it.
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    Sorry, that should read: pre-bend in the front and back of the sides, at the hinge points, before putting them on.
  • drdavewatforddrdavewatford Hertfordshire, UKAdministrator Posts: 6,384
    edited January 2015
    You can see how I positioned the legs for greatest stability in the picture below:


    I have always asked for help when placing the body on the legs - you can only realistically do this on your own if you build a strong enough handle on the top of the body to allow you to hold it with one hand while adjusting the position of the legs with the other. @cavegod's AT-AT has such a handle but mine doesn't although I'll almost certainly MOC one eventually......

    Regarding the legs, as discussed with cavegod a while back I'm planning to reinforce them - the plan is to replace the stacks of plates in the legs with Technic plates and then run long axles through the holes in the plates (i.e. inside the legs) to prevent the legs from snapping. This has been on my to-do list for a year now and I'll do it eventually!
  • samiam391samiam391 A Log Cabin in KY, United StatesMember Posts: 4,299
    Down she goes again.

    After adding one side panel and working on placing the last side panel one of the legs buckled and the rest is history. The bottom of the body crumpled underneath the strain, followed by the head smashing against the table and falling into complete disarray.

    So instead of popping a bottle of champagne in celebration of completing the beast I spent the evening rebuilding it all. In addition, I added some more plates and pieces to try and strengthen it.

    I'll give it another go tomorrow... if it falls apart again I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
  • graphitegraphite USMember Posts: 3,248
    samiam391 said:

    if it falls apart again I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

    Glue. =)

  • samiam391samiam391 A Log Cabin in KY, United StatesMember Posts: 4,299
    graphite said:

    samiam391 said:

    if it falls apart again I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

    Glue. =)

    I hate to say it... but I just did that.

    Very light glue for 3 portions of each leg.

    I've committed blasphemy against LEGO... but this is how I have to do it. Unfortunately, the place where I have it setup is prone to "shaking", so I glued it more in fear of its long term stability.
  • graphitegraphite USMember Posts: 3,248
    When I had mine setup before I moved I had it up on an old trunk that sat next to my home theater sub woofer. It stayed up for like 9 months with no issue and I would intentionally give it little nudges every now and then to see how it was holding up. But gluing is definitely in my future. Will probably only do pretty much all of the stacks of the legs and some of the mounting to the feet as well as a couple pieces of the stuff hanging down under the body. One light touch to that part and it always comes crashing down.
  • samiam391samiam391 A Log Cabin in KY, United StatesMember Posts: 4,299
    You nailed it (or glued it) on the head there.

    That's what I've glued.

    The top portion of the legs (two plates), the ankle portion (both the plate and hinge), and then a few pieces underneath the body to make sure the engines hold.

    I should probably get stronger glue, but for now all I've got is Elmer's child glue.
  • cavegodcavegod Member Posts: 806
    Mine stud fine without glue,

    Ive only mek'd the legs for show purposes, can set it up on my own in about 15 mins, even quicker with two people.
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    No glue for me either. Once you get a technique down it goes up pretty fast. The key part is making sure the legs are plumb with the body on before more weight is added. Side stress is the enemy.

    As a vehicle, it's so top heavy that the Rebels should have had no problem knocking them over. Just a couple of Ewoks shot from a watermelon launcher would have been enough.
  • drdavewatforddrdavewatford Hertfordshire, UKAdministrator Posts: 6,384
    Yeah - no glue for me either. I will however be reducing the fragility by way of a few judicious modifications prior to displaying it again in future as I spent the whole of STEAM 2013 convinced it was going to collapse....
  • graphitegraphite USMember Posts: 3,248
    Mine was fine without glue, but I don't want to have to tip toe around it and I know I'll be moving again a couple times in the next few years and don't want it to be such a pain. Know that I'm probably always going to want it together after how much it cost to build.
    samiam391 said:

    I should probably get stronger glue, but for now all I've got is Elmer's child glue.

    This is the stuff I'm going to be using. Recommended by someone who makes LEGO lamps, picture frames and more. Believe he's on here but since I know him in person I'm not sure what his name is here =)

  • cavegodcavegod Member Posts: 806
    Pva? nah use Mek!
  • graphitegraphite USMember Posts: 3,248
    He recommended Mek too if you absolutely want permanent but Mek is some nasty stuff.
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    Just put mine up for the Con here in Albuquerque. It's always a bit nerve racking and I will be holding my breathe the whole weekend.

    A few notes and pictures:

    The legs were set up using a 2 stud space between the toes of the feet that are close together. Last time I set it up I used a tape measure for the spacing of the width between the legs. This time I just used a couple of big plates to get an exact width. I placed the more open legs using the width gauge.

    After putting the body on I made sure the legs were perfectly vertical and made some very minor adjustments to the feet. I tried to put the neck on the snap the head in place after, but I chickened out while pushing on the head. I took the neck back off and did it how I've always done by putting the head on the neck then attaching the whole thing on the body.

    Sides were next with half axles pre-snapped in the sides and just patiently lining the up and pushing them into the body axle pin connectors. It always takes a few attempts to angle the pin connectors just right.

    Roof pieces are pretty straightforward just start with front and back with the top last.
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    edited January 2015
    Meant to edit above but not quick enough:

    There's also a shot with someone else's BL'd Falcon. The booth I'm displaying in is the local Bricks and Minifigs. Great people and I'm really greatful that I can display this in their spot cause I can't display it at home. There's not a stable enough spot where my 3 year olds can't get it. As always, I give credit to @cavegod‌ for his design on a display card.
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    Update from Comic Con:

    William Shatner knocked over and destroyed my AT-AT...

    Well, maybe he's not directly responsible for its destruction but he's part of the root cause. Let me explain. The volunteers working the Con needed some more backdrop curtains for Mr. Shatner. In their infinite wisdom, they decided the curtains right behind the most fragile object in the whole room would be the best ones to take. The Bricks and Minifig folks who were super vigilant to protect it told them they could not move any tables and that even touching the table with the biggest display could be catastrophic. Well at least Captain Kirk got his blue curtain background.
  • LegoboyLegoboy 100km furtherMember Posts: 8,727
    Brew said:

    Well at least Captain Kirk got his blue curtain background.

    [Reaches for phaser]
  • graphitegraphite USMember Posts: 3,248
    Maybe he didn't like that you had star wars stuff instead of star trek =)
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    I think it's because TLG never got the ST license...
  • samiam391samiam391 A Log Cabin in KY, United StatesMember Posts: 4,299
    @Brew‌ - Oh my... are repairs under way? That's a sight I'm much to used to seeing.
  • drdavewatforddrdavewatford Hertfordshire, UKAdministrator Posts: 6,384
    That's a shocker - I'm sorry for your pain.

    I had a similar mare prior to STEAM in 2013 - almost all set up and then the legs gave way and I was looking at a pile of rubble. If @cavegod hadn't been there to lead the repair effort I'd probably still be there now trying to fix it....
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    Repairs are not underway at this time. Unfortunately I won't have time to get to it for awhile, but rest assured the Empire will strike back.
  • margotmargot Member Posts: 2,310
    Oh, horrible. :-1:
  • brickupdatebrickupdate Member Posts: 1,020
    @Brew Sorry to hear that!
  • BrewBrew New Mexico (It's an actual state in the US)Member Posts: 182
    Thanks for all the sympathies, but like I told the very apologetic people from BAM, it's lego... It will go back together. I'll take the opportunity to do some reinforcing when I get to it. Don't get me wrong, it does suck. However, I enjoy the challenge. Let this be a learning for those out there ready to take on this challenge; you will have to build this more than once.
  • GalactusGalactus NLMember Posts: 255
    edited January 2015
    samiam391 said:

    To give a small sense of scale as to how large it is, the 5th picture has a red minifigure next to the front foot. In addition, you can tell just how large it is by comparing it to the star destoryer and super star destroyer right next to it. It truly is massive.

    Thank you for this view. I have the ISD and now I think I'm getting a little bit of an impression about it's massive size.
    On a side note, I think it's also nice to see (for comparison) old gray and new bluish gray side by side in these large builds.
  • thehornedratthehornedrat Member Posts: 86
    So inspirational! I dream of attempting one myself, the problem is sourcing the parts in Australia, where the SSD for bulk grey parts is so very pricey at AUD$699!! Let alone buying them off BL :(

    Hopefully the new Helicarrier is full of light blue grey parts with enough variety...
  • welo999welo999 AustriaMember Posts: 31
    The last parts arrived and i had a little time last week.
    The legs, body and the left side are finished.

    The rear of the side seems a bit weak. Not sure if it will hold.

    Builders of the UCS AT-AT will notice that cavegod made some changes. For example the incrediby expensive giant wheels were replaced by much cheaper motorcycle rims.

  • samiam391samiam391 A Log Cabin in KY, United StatesMember Posts: 4,299
    @welo999 - If you are doubting the stability, then it's probably unstable and will not hold when you put everything together. I had the same thought, and as soon as I added the head the entire thing came crashing down. The body split in two in dramatic fashion, Luke won that round.

    I ended up adding a lot of reinforcements via technic pieces to try and level out the center of gravity. I would suggest you do likewise. Better safe than sorry!
  • cavegodcavegod Member Posts: 806
    The two red lift arms need connecting to the neck with an axle.

    I can see them folded up in the pic.
  • welo999welo999 AustriaMember Posts: 31
    Thanks. I wondered what they are for.
  • blackiepaulblackiepaul Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2015
    Hi all,

    My first post on this forum so please be nice.  I have been into Lego for most of my walking life but have always bought sets rather than try to do something like this.

    I bought the files from Pete (cavegod) and collected the bits together and I am aiming on making two of them.

    Only last night did I bring the bits home for ATAT1 as they have been delivered mainly to work where they have all been checked off and part numbers marked.  The job of sorting them into a sensible format, colour, type etc took some thinking.

    Anyway I will start building it when time allows over the coming weeks.

    One quick question on Lego digital designer, when you are in building mode is there a way to get the part number for the part on the screen?  I can then check I am using the right part.

    Here is a pic of the sorting that has been done so far - not sure why I can not embed the pic. 1.jpg.html


  • 77ncaachamps77ncaachamps Aspiring Time Traveler Stuck in the West (US)Member Posts: 2,442
    This is an epic thread.

  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    DSC01142 I was workshopping an idea to improve the stability of the AT-AT tonight. First, I figured out a good distance for the the feet to be spread apart. After getting those measurements, I took the tires out of the wheels and added one extra layer of 1x8's around the bottom of the red box. Then, I pressed the feet onto 2 48x48 plates at their required positions. Worked great! It still doesn't like a lot of side pressure, but I don't fear it falling over at the slightest table wiggle. It's a lot easier to set up too with the feet firmly fixed. I was also kit-bashing a couple snow speeders and they are still a work in progress but was please with the stands I built to make them look like they are flying.
  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    DSC01140 Modified foot.
  • samiam391samiam391 A Log Cabin in KY, United StatesMember Posts: 4,299
    @ecmo47 - I love the snowspeeders flying in the background, that might be something I need to implement.

    The AT-AT looks splendid on its own, but rather lonely. Some snowspeeders would fit the scene perfectly.
  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    edited April 2015
    Need a little help. Last night I managed to drop the head on the table. It smashed into many pieces and will have to be totally rebuilt. I went looking for my LDD "AT-AT Head" file that I purchased from Cavegod back in 2013 and it is missing along with a bunch of my older LDD files. I have no idea why. The only file I have left is "right side". If somebody could (re)send me the rest of the files, please shoot me a PM for my email address. Thanks!
  • CapnRex101CapnRex101 United KingdomAdministrator Posts: 2,282
    @ecmo47 - It reminds me of a horseshoe :)
  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    Here are some more builders photo's as I refurbish my AT-AT. This is a picture of the interior of the neck showing the installation Brew's "Technics Rotation Joint Disk with Pin and 3L Liftarm" (Parts 44224 and 44225) to create a poseable head. Ignore the two black 1x5 thin lift arms which are not correctly install in the picture. They should be moved 2 holes right so that the ends of them are centered over the center of the rotation disk joint. DSC01157
  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    Im going to display with the head turned left as far as possible. Here's a shot from below. DSC01165
  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    With the head posed the way I want it, I built a panel to cover up the back of the head. Thanks again to Brew again for the inspiration. DSC01159 DSC01160 DSC01161 DSC01162 On the right side of the neck I added an extra layer of 4x4 Macaroni pieces to help fill the gaps. With the inclusion of the back piece, I did not need a rubber band to hold the sides in place.
  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    edited April 2015

    Sequence for assembling the head:

    1. Attach neck to bottom/gun assemble.

    2. Attached front and top to bottom/gun assemble.

    3. Slide back piece over neck and attach to top piece.

    4. Make sure the 2 4l back axles are attached to the sides.

    5. Gently push on sides, one at a time.

    6. Attach gun assembles.

    7. Attach assemble to frame. (Before the legs go on!!)

  • ecmo47ecmo47 North CarolinaMember Posts: 2,101
    Here's a couple shots of foot placement. -2 studs between the toes on the right -30 studs between the right side toes. -The toes overlap by 4 studs. -The distance between the bow pieces that form the base of the ankle is 18 studs. DSC01168 DSC01167
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