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Changing the color of bricks.



  • ChanMcLChanMcL Member Posts: 1,224
    ^I still have no idea what they are :P

    Would it be possible to dye 4 x 44772?
  • CCCCCC UKMember Posts: 19,769
    I didn't dye anything that big, but I don't see why not so long as your dye pot is big enough.
  • ChanMcLChanMcL Member Posts: 1,224
    Not sure if I should give it a try or just paint my wheels.
  • MorkManMorkMan Phoenix, Arizona, USAMember Posts: 867
    Has green been used yet? I'd like to see how consistent one can be from batch to batch. If I have hundreds to dye, would I be able to keep them all the same green?
  • CCCCCC UKMember Posts: 19,769
    ^ You should be fine if you have reproducable conditions if you are doing them batch by batch. That is, a way to maintain temperature, concentration of the dye, a timer, constant stirring. For concentration, you would need to make up a fresh batch each time. Alternatively stick all the parts in a sieve, and dye the lot together. Another alternative is to go slightly cooler (slowing everything down) and keep checking.

    I have done some white to grey (with black dye), and it worked fine. I was trying not to be too uniform though, since I specifically wanted different shades to make a castle wall look a bit more realistic. I might do the same for some old white tiles and plates for grass with green. Varying shades look better here in my opinion.
  • MorkManMorkMan Phoenix, Arizona, USAMember Posts: 867
    ^Thanks. It would be cheaper to color white bricks and make the Statue of Liberty that way than look for sand green bricks.
  • CCCCCC UKMember Posts: 19,769
    I doubt you could match the dye to get an exact colour. You could get a roughly uniform green among all the parts you dye, but that colour will be different to Lego's sand green. This is of course only a problem if you later mix them with Lego's colour palette.
  • MorkManMorkMan Phoenix, Arizona, USAMember Posts: 867
    I think I should be ok. The bricks would only be for the Statue. It wouldn't be a mix of LEGO color and my color bricks. If it is in the shape of a Lady Liberty and the green is representative of the green (either the REAL green or the sand green) then the intent is there as anexecution of the LEGO set.
    Besides, if it is just for my own use, no one who isn't an AFOL would even notice, much less care, that it isn't in the proper Sand Green.
  • TheBigLegoskiTheBigLegoski Amsterdam, NederlandMember Posts: 1,435
    Great topic with some some very interesting and probably useful tips and hints, in case I want to do some further minifig customization.
    I have never dyed any of my Lego, I have however painted a couple of helmets and and hats using acrylic paint from Talens.
    Paints by this manufacturer, which are also available in metal and pearlescent colours, as well as transparent colours, are produced in various qualities ranging from hobby paints to much more expensive professional artists' paint with very high degree and density of pigment for strong and intense colours.
  • CCCCCC UKMember Posts: 19,769
    The nice thing about dye is that you get a very even coat, and no brush strokes. You can also allow original printing to show through, as shown above.

    Obviously the down side is you can only make things go darker, and reproducability is probably questionable. And you have to be careful not to warp things by heating them too much, especially bricks.
  • TheBigLegoskiTheBigLegoski Amsterdam, NederlandMember Posts: 1,435
    edited September 2012

    "The nice thing about dye is that you get a very even coat, and no brush strokes."

    When applying acrylic paint to helmets or hats (the only Lego parts I have customized) you just need to experiment a little by adding a tiny tiny tiny amount of water to your paint (of which you need only a very small amount for a couple of minifig accessories) in order to get the right fluidity or pastiness in order not to have any paint brush strokes show.

    Obviously, having a fine brush with quality hair (synthetic or animal hair) also helps to get a smooth surface. I also found that instead of using a brush, you can alternatively use a sponge with a fine texture, with which you soak up some paint and dip it on to the minifig helmet. Or just buy an airbrush gun to apply the acrylic paint. However for painting small details, such as painting the buckle on the wizard hat metallic gold or silver only a brush will do. To obtain a glossy finish mix in some acrylic medium gloss, or apply afterwards. When you are not happy with the result, while the paint is still wet, just wipe it of with some kitchen paper and try again until you are happy with your results. Painting such small things does however require the diligence and patience of a diamond cutter or Swiss watch maker.

    Of course dying is totally different. The results you have achieved with the CMF series 3 Samurai warrior are absolutely fantastic, and your batman minifig looks just like the one from set number 6863 (Batwing battle over Gotham City) or 6864 (the Twoface chase).

    What I am worried about if I ever decide to dye some minifig parts or accessories, is having to turn my kitchen into some sort of chemistry lab, with volatile toxic fumes, permanent stains on my brushed steel furnace, messing up my pots and pans for cooking and what not. Also the prospect of shrinking or melting my Lego makes me somewhat anxious. I have not even ever tried to remove minifig arms out of their sockets for fear of cracking the torso part (for instance in order to give some of my caste/kingdoms soldiers with the chain/scale-mail torso a different colour arms).

    Those crests on the helmets of your CMF series 6 Roman soldiers (love that minifig), where are those from, Brickforge? That is not from Lego right?!?
  • CCCCCC UKMember Posts: 19,769
    ^ I totally agree. you can get some great details with paint and skill. Unfortunately my painting skills are lacking. I didn't even dare show the pieces I had painted, as they are embarrassing compared to others I have seen. I tried to paint details on a viking helmet, and I am just not good enough to get the lines straight. To me, they also looked a bit non-Lego style. I was also very impressed (eg with the samurai) how the original details show through, making it look like a real lego minifig.

    My batman figure is straight from the polybag 30160 - only the wings are dyed (the blue ones from 6858). The Romans' crests are Brickforge. They make some lovely pieces. The pilum is also from there. I have no replaced most of the spears of my Roman army with silver versions of this one - they look so much better. The one in the picture was trans clear when bought, but when dyed with black, actually turned a very very dark trans-red. It only really shows up as being translucent under bright light.
  • brickmaticbrickmatic Member Posts: 1,071
    Nice work on all of the dyed pieces. It looks like it came out rather well for everyone who tried it.
  • CCCCCC UKMember Posts: 19,769
    ^ That's not quite true. I didn't show the bits that got really screwed up! :-) If you are not careful ehough or purposely push the temperature too high and imersion time too long, you can really ruin pieces.
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