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Bricklinking Set Experiences



  • CCCCCC Member Posts: 20,556
    ^ At those prices, I'd have gone for four in any non-trans colour and RIT dyed them. It is easy to do any colour to black, and you will not spot the difference between real black and dyed black. You can also dye trans parts, although they can still be slightly trans when held up to the light.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Member Posts: 1,079
    ^^Another option is buy a set which contain these parts! Sometimes it's cheaper that way! For example the "Ogel control center"set (don't remember the name) contains 2 of these panels and you can get this set (even sealed)for a good price!
  • woony2woony2 Member Posts: 336
    ^ I've been down this route. #6776 Ogel's Control centre only contains one, and is the only other set to have them in black. Currently cheapest on ebay is £14 plus hefty postage and bricklink cheapest is £17 incomplete (guess which part will be missing).
    Other than that piece, #10018 is a good set to Bricklink as the other parts are easy to get, if you can live with the wrong colour. I've seen one with grey cylinders and it really doesn't make much difference.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    I am very particular about my sets being accurate, so I would never substitute a part. The problem I find with Bricklinking a set is the variety of the molds of the same part. A 1x6 black brick from an early 80's set is not the same as a black 1x6 brick in current sets. The older bricks have thicker walls, they are heavier and the plastic is of a different grade. The newer ones seem to have more shine to them as well. When I build sets from different decades I draw from different bins to complete them.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Member Posts: 1,079
    ^me neither! The only "substitute" i make is that i sometimes use the "alternate" of a listed piece, but only if it´s listed in the alternate-piece list in the inventory for this particular set!
    But i have a question, these pieces: comes with rounded corners, but if i remember right in older sets the have angled corners, unfortunately BL doesn´t differentiate between these (any more?) how do i know which ones the set i BL (Taj Mahal currently) originally came with?
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    Ahhh. I know what you mean. I think it just hasn't been brought to their attention yet.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    ^I guess I'm insanely anal. I know a lot of people don't care. I build my sets like I would restoring a classic car, aiming to be as close to original as I can.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Member Posts: 1,079
    Since i always BL every set x2 and sell the second copy i always want to be 100% accurate cause i don´t want to spoil a customer (even if it´s only the corners of some stupid panels)!
    And another one anybody with a "real" Taj Mahal set, could you tell me if the set only comes with these: or also with the newer version with side supports?
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454

    I'm currently putting together older Harry Potter sets and I make sure every part is as accurate as possible and the part is unblemished. Can you imagine a novice putting together these sets and replacing old grey and dark grey with "bley" and dark "bley" and brown with reddish brown. I would be furious if I received a set like that.
  • patrickbranspatrickbrans Member Posts: 21
    edited February 2013
    @Diggydoes: According to the parts list at the end of book 2 it comes with item n° 4113016 which is the one you linked, without side support.
  • jadedancjadedanc Member Posts: 1,302
    Normally I would agree. My OCD is that as well but I gotta get him built for ECCC in Seattle on Mar 1st :) And I have been putting him off long enough
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    That's a long time from now. I'm desperately trying to find those pieces for you in a loose bunch of black Lego. I'm 1/4 of the way through. I can't stand the thought if Darth Maul being fitted with the wrong pieces.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Member Posts: 1,079
    @patrickbrans: I know that (at least) the first batches came with the one w/o side support since the ones with sidesupport were not out that time, but it´s possible that later batches of the Taj came with the updated version!
    The same happened for example with the Pet Shop (Modular) the first batches came with the 1x2x3 Panel w/o sidesupp.(the same that CC uses for the windows) BUT when i bought 2 PS a year ago they came with the Panel with sidesupp.! That´s why i guess that it may be possible that later batches of the Taj also came with the Panel with sidesupp.! So anybody can confirm this? Anybody here who´s bought a Taj shortly before it EOL´d?
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454

    I couldn't find it in my loose pieces sorry :(
  • jadedancjadedanc Member Posts: 1,302
    Thanks anyway @Pitfall69 :) I know, I am feeling the same but I am also working on 2 mosaics for the show, so three weeks to get all three done is gonna be fun, since I am up so early for the Army right now.
  • flowerpotgirlflowerpotgirl Member Posts: 195
    edited February 2013
    I have just finished #10182 CC, and have started on #10190 Market Street. However after reading this thread I am now super excited to build #3723 Minifgure. This looks like a great way to use up an excess of the larger 2 wide, primary coloured bricks, which hardly get used for modular type builds.
    Cafe Corner was the first set I bricklinked, and I enjoyed the whole process. I built it over the course of three months, so I think the set has been excellent value for money. I feel I appreciate the set slightly more than the other modulars (FB and PS) which were bought as kits, and usually built in one or two evenings.
  • Tevans333Tevans333 Member Posts: 152
    Wow, what happened to the 2x4x3 white window frame (Element 4132) used in CC recently? It has jumped up to $20 each in the last 2 months?! There are 5 in CC so that really ups the bricklink costs.
  • glendoglendo Member Posts: 22
    im working on a 10185 GG, and the sand green bricks are a killer for prices. the grooved 1x2 sand green, and 1x8 sand green can blow the budget.
  • dougtsdougts Member Posts: 4,110
    You can easily replace the 1x8s with combinations of 1x4, 1x6, and 1x2
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    ^If he's anything like me, I won't substitute parts. It's not the same in my eyes.
  • Bosstone100Bosstone100 Member Posts: 1,431
    ^ but if your eyes don't see it, who else is going to know. I say sub away.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    ^What if you plan on selling later? I just can't do it, I would be living a lie :)
  • ZathrasZathras Member Posts: 70
    I bricklinked the GG last month, It was relatively cheap since the LOTR/HH sets came out. I ended up spending $220ish (includes shipping) for the 1200 parts I needed. I didn't want the minifigures so my total doesn't include them.

    Sand green bricks used:
    60 - 1x6s
    50 - 1x4s
    15 - 1x2s - 1 extra
    35 - 1x1s
    55 - 1x3s - 6 extra

    Took all of 2 seconds to make the call on 1x8s at $3.49 per vs. 1x6 + 1x2 / 1x4 (x2) at 0.55 to 0.60 paired.

    I splurged for the slotted Sand Green 1x2s (x60) at $28 with shipping. The 8 I had left over are going toward beefing up my Ollivander’s one day.

    Bought Medium Blue brick, arch 1 x 3 x 2 curved top because I really like that color vs. the Bright Blue. Same with the train windows, though I bought the four needed I prefer the look of the ordinary 1x2x3s w/ glass

    I was surprised at what turned out to be the most difficult parts to reasonable source YMMV -

    - Reddish Brown tile 1 x 4 with Viking snakes pattern
    - Dark bley plate 2 x 16s
    - Light bley 6x10 plates, 1x10 plates, and Head light bricks
    - Dark bley door frames (this will get easier as more rancor sets get parted out)
    - Dark (Earth) Green 2x2s/2x4s
    - White hinge plate 1 x 4s
    - Black slope 45 2 x 2 double concave
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Member Posts: 1,079
    ^don´t forget that a lot of the later mentioned pieces still can be ordered directly from s@h! For example the Dark Green Bricks or the door frames!
  • bluedragonbluedragon Member Posts: 506
    I am also addicted to bricklinking sets. I have recently acquired the parts for GG. The 1x2 sloted sand green bricks, 1x2 dark green, white hinge plates and a few other parts were all from S@H as they were cheaper than on BL.

    The only substitution was the 1x8 sand green bricks. That price is ridiculous and I can't justify it when there is no intention to sell. If/when they are more reasonably priced I will replace them.
  • Bosstone100Bosstone100 Member Posts: 1,431
    So far, I have bricklinked Cafe Corner, a MOC modular elementary school and ten 30140 Alien Conquest Walkers without minifigs. I don't really care about the minifigs. I believe in a world where all minifigs are created equal and have the right to fly into space, go underwater or live in a modular building.
  • RennyRenny Member Posts: 1,145
    I put together my 10179 UCS Falcon last year, no subs. It was my first bricklink project and I really had a lot of fun with it. It was great receiving new pieces everyday in the mail and checking them off a master list. It took about 2 months if I remember correctly to acquire all 5000+ pieces. It sounds silly but collecting this set this way definitely provided me with a greater sense of ownership and accomplishment knowing all of the additional effort that was required.

    I think the hardest part for me though was pressing the buy button on the manual. At the time I paid $150 for a new one (the other rare pieces were not that big of a hit when I was putting this together). Total came to about $800-$900. Add $300 more for a custom made acrylic display case :) I am NOT dusting that behemoth.
  • LusiferSamLusiferSam Member Posts: 574
    Generally I've found bricklinking a set to be a huge waste of time and money. I've done this a couple of time with older (1978-2004) and modern sets (post 2004) and a several time with older vintage sets (pre 1978).

    The biggest issue for me is getting the "right" type of brick. Your basic 2x4 brick has something like 19 or 20 variations. Variations can over lap many time periods, so you have to really know what you're looking for. And it can be hard and expensive to the right variation as most sellers can't/won't know the difference. Maybe I'm just being anal, but I think it matters.

    As for modern sets there are far too many rare or unique elements. That make them experience and hard to find. I've spent months searching reasonable priced rare elements. I've got one set I've been trying to complete for six months. And had three different seller can't seem to tell the difference between light gray and light bluish gray. Idiots.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    ^No, you are not being too anal. I am the same way. I compared a light gray brick from one of my Classic Space sets with a light gray brick from a set that was made just before TLG went to "bley". There were many differences. If I bought a used set and found out the person didn't use the correct bricks, I would send it back.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    I purposely buy older sealed Classic Lego bulk brick sets to complete sets of that time period.
  • bluedragonbluedragon Member Posts: 506
    edited February 2013
    I can understand why some collectors would like to have complete sets with no substitutions (even invisible ones). I also agree that those that bricklink sets with the ultimate goal of selling should not substitute parts or fully disclaim all substitutions.

    I personally like to look at the buildings and the building process itself. Having 2 1x4 bricks instead of 1 1x8 in GG does not alter those experiences. It actually prolongs building time! :-)
  • bluedragonbluedragon Member Posts: 506
  • luckyrussluckyruss Member Posts: 872
    ^ I want the one in the middle (between MS and GG)! Is that your own MOC, looks really neat.
  • bluedragonbluedragon Member Posts: 506
    That is not MOC. I bought the instructions off Ebay from Fully Brick Models. It is a Bakery (ground floor) and has amazing interiors as well. More than 5000 pieces in total!
  • RennyRenny Member Posts: 1,145
    Wow, a 5000 piece modular? Awesome stuff.
  • CCCCCC Member Posts: 20,556

    I believe in a world where all minifigs are created equal and have the right to fly into space, go underwater or live in a modular building.

    Not the women though. At least not the ones that refuse to sit down.
  • BrewBrew Member Posts: 183
    Has anyone here actually BL'd and built Cavegod's UCS AT-AT? If so, are there a lot of difficult to find pieces and what was the approximate total cost?

    It looks so cool and I'm very tempted to give it a try.
  • BrewBrew Member Posts: 183
    @canuck Thanks, what a great blog and loads of information.

    Looks even better in close detail and makes me want to do it even more. A little daunting, though.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Member Posts: 1,079
    During the last two yrs i've made quite a couple of BL transactions for several EOL'ed sets but from my last 10 transactions 3 were disappointing! Especially when it comes to items that have newer versions i guess you always have to ask first if the item that's offered is indeed the one you want (for example: cone with/without top groove!)!
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 Member Posts: 11,454
    ^That sucks man. This is why I only buy sealed sets. Bricklink descriptions are always vague anyway. Ebay may have more fees associated with them, but at least I can describe my item completely. Pictures speak volumes too.
  • madforLEGOmadforLEGO Member Posts: 10,837
    Id say it is interesting if you like the investigation of it all and hunting the parts down and whatnot. But you really have to like that sort of thing. I have been used to it as I have done this with older 80's era sets for some time now.
  • DiggydoesDiggydoes Member Posts: 1,079
    Ah i've forgot to mention that i've meant for pieces from EOL'ed sets :)
  • prevereprevere Member Posts: 2,923
    Just finished Bricklinking the VW Beetle 10187. Boy, that was really tough. I was down to buying my last part, 5x - 6x10 dark blue plates. I figure, ha, no problem.

    Only to have my mouth drop when I saw the prices on those.
  • madforLEGOmadforLEGO Member Posts: 10,837
    That is one issue with BLing... Expensive parts are expensive parts regardless...
  • rocaorocao Administrator Posts: 4,290
    @prevere: how much did it cost you total?
  • prevereprevere Member Posts: 2,923
    edited February 2013
    Those sneaky really expensive parts, I call "ninja parts". On the surface they look common. Then, SWOOSH!, they've flown in and taken your wallet.

    About $150 total w/ shipping costs I'd say - no instructions, no sticker. And...I had about 40% of the parts in my inventory already. I needed all the dark blue, medium blue, tires and specialty parts.
  • julian977julian977 Member Posts: 65
    When I have a couple of evenings free I plan to go through the inventories for the older creator houses: I hope with what we already have in the 'basic parts/windows/tiles/roof slopes mountain', it shouldn't be that hard or costly to bricklink the rest of the set(s).
  • luckyrussluckyruss Member Posts: 872
    edited February 2013
    ^ agreed - 4954 is a LOT of tan parts!

    The doors and windows will set you back the most if you want to do it accurately

    #4956 has both the left and right hand light bluish gray door from market street / and cafe corner
    #4954 has 8 of the 1x4x3 train windows with solid studs
    #4886 (which I guess officially is a designer series, rather than creator) has the black door with 6 panels (73312) which is the front door from market st.

    I guess these are easily substitutable if you're not too fussed about it (particularly the windows). I have two 4956s but one now has red doors, I sold the light bley ones which effectively meant I got the rest of the set for free. Why would the minifig residents want the same colour doors as their next door neighbour anyway?!
  • binaryeyebinaryeye Member Posts: 1,831
    Has anyone here BL'd parts for Psiaki's X-Wing? I have some of the more common parts, but would need about 90% of the part list. I'll most likely be using bluish gray rather than old gray, and will probably use something else in place of the gray 2x2 barrels used for the engines, which seem to be fairly rare.
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