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Ugh - cardinal sin of building with LEGO. However, the Indianapolis Children's Museum is reaching out to our LUG for building some models for them as part of their upcoming LEGO exhibit. They have three models they'd like built (car, boat, plane), that would essentially be props handled by some "actors" in their exhibit. They really want to make sure the models aren't constantly falling apart and needing repair as they are being handled. So they've requested they be glued. I'm just not familiar with the gluing process and issues (what glue to use, what tools/techniques, how much time to allocate, and what problems arise when needing to unglue to fix/modify a model). Anyone with experience here who can suggest approaches?
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am too lazydon't have time to find it at the moment, but go check out his YouTube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/seankenney/videos. Nathan Sawaya also glues his models together, check out his site http://brickartist.com/
I've used Elmer's on a couple of my models for little parts that pop off when playing. Dries clean and is not permanent. When you want to take the glued sections apart again, it pops off easy (just a little tension), no residue (flakes off clean) and no harm to the bricks. I just use a dot of Elmers for whatever section needs it.
MEK is used by the model shops but it is not particularly safe, as you will read.
I was thinking of trying this; anyone used it or have thoughts?
That link provides how to remove mini figures on the magnet base, but it might help you.
lol, Seriously though I'm not sure you will get very many answers on this.
I think most generally regard gluing brick together as a no-no...
Just kidding, sort of....
But as @madforLEGO already said, I don't think you'll find too many people that will take kindly to gluing bricks together.
I feel dirty just saying that..
As far as what to use as @CCC said - that's what LEGO uses as well for their glued models, but those are pretty nasty. Make sure you have good ventillation and a face-mask if you use them.
I also highly recommend standard white school-glue. It is gentle on you and your LEGO bricks, and they do create a good bond. Many LEGO sculpture builders use them, even for very large sculptures. The bonding is not permanent as with the other methods, but it is strong, and won't damage your LEGO. If you ever want to take the model aparts you can....(c;
And as I'm sure @bimmerland knew, I was merely joking :-)
MEK is the goto-glue - it creates a permanent bond (the bricks will break before becoming unglued) it doesn't leave any residue, but it is very toxic to inhale the fumes.
If you are just gluing a few pieces, you can use acetone (nail-polish remover). Dip a q-tip in some, and swab the two surfaces that needs to be glues, before pressing them together. Works great for repairing broken plates!
I've had some luck with (PVC) rain-gutter glue. It is rather thick, and is diffucult to dose, but it works great.
For gluing LEGObricks to other surfaces, I recommend hot glue from a glue-gun (silicone).
There are several types, but I like the kind with the green label. I have not seen it mess up the plastic away from the glue spots, but if you over-do it, you might see some discoloring/warping where it seeped out.
Plumbers solvent weld works in the same way.
I used regular nail polish (80% Acetate). I poured it into the cap and used a cotton swab (Q-tip) to lightly coat the inside of the receiving pieces. Almost instant bonding.
I made keychains as take home items for my son's birthday party, I don't want them broken apart the minute the kids get them, and many have young siblings, so I'm justifying it that way.
Nevertheless, I would tell you that if you are going to do it, have all your pieces laid out and ready. You don't get too much time to bond them, and any drips of nail polish will ruin the finish on the pieces. Less is more, but not too little, either.