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Quick Guide to buying Lego from online auction sites.

Bluefox1966Bluefox1966 UKMember Posts: 360
edited April 2011 in Buying & Selling Topics
I have had several years of ebay calamities under my belt and wish I had had a few pointers. Here's a quick guide to buying on online auction sites:-

1. Always look carefully at the pictures. You may be able to spot the odd Megabloks or other foreign matter If you are not sure don't bid or ask questions.

2. Always check the sellers completed and current listing. You may find they have other Lego items for sale that they have "Cherry picked" from the lot. This leave you with basic Lego with a lower value.

3. Don't buy from auctions where the say a selection from the picture you see, again they have probably "Cherry picked" the best stuff

4. Don't buy lots where it says a specific number of pieces, You will be surprised how small 500 pieces of Lego actually are.

5. When buying instruction manuals check where they were stored. I bought some that were stored in a garage and subsequently arrived stuck together due to damp conditions.

6. If you are collecting mint boxed items, don't buy anything with a stock photo. Always ask for a real photo of the item. Mint in box is not the same as Mint box.

Hope this helps.

Comments

  • rocaorocao Administrator Posts: 4,288
    @Bluefox1966: Great advice; I was intending to either write a guide myself or identify an expert to do one. This is a good start, and I'll either just add to this list, or encapsulate this in what I post for formatting reasons.
  • JP3804JP3804 Member Posts: 332
    Hi, here are sometings I have learned the hard way shopping on ebay. ( 1) If you want a mint box ask about packaging even if they state that they pack carefully in their ad. I have received numerous sets wrapped in bubble wrap and kraft paper. Needless to say the boxes are rather smashed when you receive them. (2) If buying expensive sets make sure that they are insured, most sellers don't. (3) I seem to have more issues with power sellers than casual sellers. (4) When buying bricks I buy small lots of specific bricks so I know what I'm getting ( I use my ebay bucks for this). Check for sellers that offer free shipping if you buy a certain # of lots or $ amount usually $10 to $15 worth. This saves a lot of money when the bricks are 1.00 and shipping is $2.50 There is my two cents worth. I hope it saves some heartache.
  • Bluefox1966Bluefox1966 UKMember Posts: 360
    edited April 2011
    Good point about the packaging.

    There is problem is even when the item is insured and the item arrives damaged( we are taking the Mint box here as we all know Lego is almost bomb proof) you have to prove it was poorly packed.

    The post office are an absolute nightmare when it come to claims for damages. 99% of the time the will tell you it was the sender fault and to claim from them.

    Ebay/paypal are also disinterested and unless you send it back will not offer a refund. This can work out costly if the item was large or heavy as you will be expected to cover the return shipping cost.

    So as @JP3804 says always inquire how the item will be sent and if you are really worried offer to pay a little extra of packaging if you can clearly see the seller has vastly under estimated it. A little extra at the onset may save you the cost of returning the item.
  • rocaorocao Administrator Posts: 4,288
    edited April 2011
    I don't quite have the free time yet to get into all the specifics, but I'll just say that the golden rule before bidding is "When in doubt, ask". Never assume anything about the item, how it will be packaged, etc. If something isn't mentioned or shown in a picture, there is a good chance the seller is omitting the mention for a reason.
  • prof1515prof1515 EarthMember Posts: 1,561
    If they advertise it as MISB be sure to contact the seller to clarify. While MISB used to mean "Mint in Sealed Box" some try to pass it off as "Mint in Sealed Bags". Some will even stretch "sealed bags" to mean Ziploc bags that they've placed the parts in. Additionally, have them define and clarify "Mint". To some, mint means "unopened" even though the box may look like it went through a boxing match. Others will even try to claim a set is "mint" despite the fact that it's been opened, built and played with. In general, treat the term "MISB" to be an unreliable term if not confirmed with explicit detail.
  • JP3804JP3804 Member Posts: 332
    Excellent points gentlemen. This is why I like dealing with the small sellers. They are usually AFOL and are selling to support thier LEGO habit. I do alot of research when looking for MISB sets. I look for listings that are very descriptive, small crease on box not shown in photo: ask for more photos etc. these seller obviously want you to know what you are getting. When I find sellers like this, I save them in my favorites list even if what they are selling now is not what I want. Now I have a nice data base of reliable sellers. As for shipping, I ask if they will ship UPS. They are usually cheaper then USPS when shipping large sets, 10182 etc. UPS is excellent when making a claim. My first sale was a 10182 and the box got damaged. the damage wasn't bad , it looked like it had been dropped on the corner, but the buyer wanted MISB. I sent photos and reciepts with a claim for a third of the selling price and shipping both ways and my claim was approved with-in an hour. I sent the buyer a shipping label and every one was happy.
  • mackrelmackrel Member Posts: 75
    Thank you for starting this thread. I am selling a MISB on ebay right now and I went back and added to the description of the item. I wanted the potential customers to know that I am a AFOL and that I will take extra care to pack the set in the box. Thanks for the tips!
  • prof1515prof1515 EarthMember Posts: 1,561
    One other thing to always remember is odor. Always ask if the set comes from a smoking environment and if the set possesses any odor at all. Tobacco odor will permeate the box, instructions and the bricks themselves and can be impossible to remove. Don't merely ask if it comes from a smoking home or if it smells of smoke. It's entirely possible that the set could be second-hand (even if mint) and while the present owner may not be a smoker, a previous owner may have been.
  • knuclear200xknuclear200x Member Posts: 45
    I bought a set online once. It had everything but 2 pieces. they weren't very important but at the time i was very persnickety for such a minor detail, even though I had spare pieces at home anyway.
  • Bluefox1966Bluefox1966 UKMember Posts: 360
    edited April 2011
    Another good point @prof1515 I had a 20Kg load from a family who I swear ran a Fish and chip shop. The Lego stank of fat and I had to soak the whole lot in a bath. Also smoke free home is a bit of a loose description. Some unscrupulous dealers buy Lego and sell straight it on, they may have a smoke free home but where they just obtained it from may not so Technically they are telling the truth but you still end up with smelly Lego.
  • Bluefox1966Bluefox1966 UKMember Posts: 360
    Another thing I forgot to mention and look out for was, I bought a couple of mint sealed box sets 7201 and 7203 from Ebay a few years ago. I stored them on a shelf where they must have been for around a year. I was having a move around when I noticed the boxes were open. ( the glue had come unstuck. What the seller had done was carefully brake the seal along one edge remove the contents, replace with rubbish Lego and reseal.

    Another gem was I bought a so say "sealed Jabba's palace" from the U.S and had it shipped to the U.K where I live. When it arrived it was obviously opened and stuck back together with sticky tape. The seller claimed he had so much he was selling he didn't look properly at it be for sending it. Yeah right! It worked out I would have lost too much money to send it back insured( I would have lost around £15.00) so I ended up keeping it and sourcing another.

    Be careful out there!
  • HuwHuw Brickset Towers, Hampshire, UKAdministrator Posts: 6,546
    An excellent thread, just the sort of thing I'd hope to find discussed in this forum.
  • evilempire22evilempire22 Member Posts: 31
    I haven't bought any sets from auction sites in quite some time, but one thing I have noticed when browsing is that the auction title will claim to be "Complete set WXYZ", but when you open the post and read the fine print, it states something to the effect of "Complete set WXYZ, minus minifigs" or "Complete set WXYZ, minus one or two easy-to-find pieces". This is extremely misleading and could trip up an unsuspecting buyer.

    I have also seen a lot of listings claiming the set is complete, with a picture of it that doesn't include minifigs, and no further description of the contents.

    I guess the point I am trying to make is that buyer beware, and make sure to get all the answers to your questions before bidding on something. And make sure to ask the questions so that you get direct answers.

    I have even gone so far as to report the blatantly misleading postings in hopes that the auction site will do something about these shady sellers.

    --Evil
  • madforLEGOmadforLEGO Chicagoland USMember Posts: 9,509
    edited April 2011
    I do sell on eBay and I just want to say that being descriptive as I can helps not receive negative comments. I have also seen tons of people bid on something, never contact the seller, and drop a negative feedback, OR file a claim with paypal because the PO is taking too long (happened to me when someone in Hawaii was too antsy, and again with someone in Alaska)...
    Also a few overseas bidders that run immediately to paypal when the item is sent and try to claim they never receive it.
    A side note to sellers: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS get some kind of tracking or delivery confirmation to stop the occasional crooked bidder from trying to go to paypal to claim they never received the item)
    OR bidders that buy an item, do not like the shipping cost and never even respond to say they do not want to pay (which stinks, but then at least I know I can submit a claim to get the money for the auction fee back and re-list it right away)

    So please understand that not ALL sellers are looking to mislead and not all bidders are angels as well..

    THAT being said, ALWAYS go for the auctions that are descriptive.. and don't always buy the old line "I don't know lego's so don't ask questions" especially when a seller knows enough to put their auction up with a reserve, or does have previous completed auctions for Lego.
    I, as a seller, stay away from reserves.. If I really want to sell something for a specific price I use buy it now, OR list the auction starting at that price.
    If you go for an auction not descriptive then do not be surprised if you get a subpar item.
    Also I have had in the past one occurance of the seals failing during shipment of a lego box to a location.. It happens.. so if everything is there (and factory sealed) do not freak out and say the seller is evil and unscrupulous etc... Sometimes stuff happens.

    Also remember when someone says 'free shipping' 5 out of ten times it is because they are going to spend the bare minimum to ship, meaning brown shipping paper. I always note I have a Shipping box (usually new) in my auctions, because I have had the brown paper treatment, and a 6090 Castle box got TOTALLY trashed because the paper broke open at the PO and then the PO worker ripped the box cover in pieces in order to shove it back into the wrapper and also half of the pieces were missing. So ASK Questions, which seems to be the basic message people are sending here :-)
  • drdavewatforddrdavewatford Hertfordshire, UKAdministrator Posts: 6,377
    edited April 2011
    Some fantastic advice on this thread; some of it might seem obvious, but it's amazing how many people don't do really basic things to increase the chances of a satisfactory transaction.

    I've experienced two types of issues during the course of over 300 LEGO-related eBay purchases, the majority of which have been used, boxed sets.

    Firstly, I've had a fair few 'complete' sets which are actually missing pieces, sometimes quite a few. Because of this I never leave feedback until I've closely inspected items when they arrive; ideally I do an inventory against Peeron or Bricklink ASAP after the set arrives before leaving feedback. It's a pain, but it's a necessary evil (I never build a used set unless I know all the parts are there - it's one of my idiosyncrasies !). If pieces are missing I will always politely go back to the seller and point this out, enclosing a list of the missing parts. Almost always people have been really apologetic; usually they've offered a partial refund to cover the cost of replacement parts + postage from Bricklink, occasionally they've actually found the missing parts and sent them on. Once the situation is resolved in a satisfactory way I leave positive feedback to reflect their willingness to resolve the issue. Once or twice people have refused to acknowledge that the listing was misleading, but even then they've offered me a full refund if I return the set.

    The other issue is poor packaging. Every single boxed item I buy I send an e-mail to the seller immediately after paying asking them to post the item in an outer box, or at the very least wrap the item in cardboard prior to sending. I often make this same request when I make the PayPal payment so they can't miss it. Generally the seller complies without complaint. If sets have been well packaged but arrive bashed, tough - not the fault of the seller. If the set arrives bashed and it hasn't been well packaged despite my request, I will hassle them and send a photo if necessary. Generally one of 2 scenarios at this point - either the seller offers a partial refund (which I generally accept if the damage isn't too catastrophic) or I end up sending the set back for a full refund (this hardly ever happens).

    One last point for now - as stated by others, carefully read the description, carefully look at the photos, and carefully examine the feedback and number of transactions before placing a bid. I tend to avoid lots where there's no picture of the actual item. And if a 'buy it now' lot is too good to be true, it probably is.... Just use common sense and trust your gut reaction - if the alarm bells are ringing then there's probably a good reason for it.
  • Bluefox1966Bluefox1966 UKMember Posts: 360
    @madforlegos So please understand that not ALL sellers are looking to mislead and not all bidders are angels as well..

    I agree, I also sell on ebay (not Lego can't bear to part with it;-)) and hope I describe everything that the buyer needs to know and send the item so it will arrive in the condition I would like to receive it.

    Free shipping, yes items arrive flatten because they have been sent in a jiffy bag. Then the seller say's you should claim from the post office. Good point, watch out for that one!
  • Bluefox1966Bluefox1966 UKMember Posts: 360
    edited April 2011
    @drdavewatford how may parts were in the biggest set you bought online before you built it? Hope it wasn't a star destroyer :-)
  • drdavewatforddrdavewatford Hertfordshire, UKAdministrator Posts: 6,377
    ^ Biggest online used set purchase was probably Death Star II. Horrific to inventory I have to admit, and that was one of the few I didn't fully inventory before leaving feedback. I also bought UCS Y-Wing, Snowspeeder and other biggies used and those WERE checked within 48-72 hours of arrival. UCS Imperial Star Destroyer I bought MISB and picked up in a car park !
  • mackrelmackrel Member Posts: 75
    By the way...If you buy something on ebay pay for it immediately! You wouldn't stand in line at the grocery store for two days after they rang up all your items.
  • madforLEGOmadforLEGO Chicagoland USMember Posts: 9,509
    @mackrel: Good point :-)
  • madforLEGOmadforLEGO Chicagoland USMember Posts: 9,509
    I sell Lego both boxed in factory seals and loose. (and have 100% pos feedback)
    When loose I learned a long time ago to take pics and show them. Now my camera is not perfect and I cannot take really really close up and show things like shading differences, but I always warn people of this when selling sets because I'd rather be critical of the stuff I am selling, and consequently sell it for less, then selling something without being critical and then wind up either having to replace parts or take an item back.. Many times I have been told in my feedback "better than described" which I'd MUCH rather have...
    I also yank really sun yellowed parts when possible or make note of it, usually I just toss the yellowed parts (unless they are classic gray then I just replace them, because those go for money even when yellowed...lol) Does it cost a bit? Sure, but again Id rather have positive feedback and not negative.. I cannot understand why people do not care about that..

    Also another note that touched on in my last comment PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not give sellers 1-4 stars for delivery time if it arrives per the guidelines in the auction (eBay has a tab to see when an item should reach you). eBay, I feel, has gone out of their way to be hard on sellers, and why? I am not sure, since seller fees is what makes eBay go around...such as not allowing for negative feedback to bidders, which used to keep the idiots that can always find fault with an item (even when there is no fault, other that their anxiousness) with more power, as a result I think people are more ridiculous with feedback than ever. Plus bidders barely get plunked for not paying.. I have had a FLOOD of these since this feedback policy was put into place.
  • Bluefox1966Bluefox1966 UKMember Posts: 360
    edited April 2011
    We seem to have gone off the point here this was a guide to BUYING Lego online. Not a gripe at the way ebay conducts it's feed back policy, what feed back you should leave or how individuals on this forum sell there items. This is just a guide on the pitfalls you may encounter online. Perhaps a new thread on SELLING or have a go at ebay should be feed back should be started.
  • Si_UKNZSi_UKNZ NZMember Posts: 4,179
    edited April 2011
    Ok here's a few tips to add. I've probably bought over 1000 things on ebay in the last few years, including a few 100 of lego.

    It's cheaper to buy Lego by the kilo but be careful of these tricks:
    - Putting a few 'special' pieces on the top to make you think that some rare set is buried in there. 9/10 times it isn't, but this can hugely inflate the price.

    - Even if you can see quite a few pieces and it looks like a good set is in there, watch out. Some genuine sellers do sell things unwittingly, but more often than not it's someone who's lost a third of the set and knows they'll get a better price if they make it look like an 'accidental' sell in a batch rather than being honest and selling it as a set with 1/3 missing.

    - Hidden stuff at the bottom. If the seller only shows a photo of the top of the box, don't touch it with a barge pole. If they won't send more pictures, forget it. Genuine sellers will understand that you should have some idea what you're spending £100 on!

    - Go through the photos very carefully. I always save them locally (right click on the page and 'save page as' then extract the jpeg from the folder, or use downthemall plugin for firefox) and open in a jpeg viewer and zoom it in. The other trick is ctrl and + in the browser. Go through it really carefully looking for megablocks (strange shape bits, odd colours) and also to decide what eras of lego are in there.

    - watch out for bionicle. I got one 10kg lot, and it was listed as "City, Technics, Potter and Star wars" and it turned out to include about 3kg of Bionicle purposely hidden from the photos and not mentioned. That one was still worth the price for the other stuff, but Bionicle is like a plague on the mixed lego lots.

    - ALWAYS make sure you leave Lego feedback if the seller uses any of the above tactics deliberately (it's ususally pretty easy to tell if they hid something on purpose, e.g. look if they sell a lot of lego in their completed listings) and therefore always check the negative feedback before buying, I always read every one.

    - Obvious I know, but be careful of sellers with few feedback, and also be aware of whether their feedback is as a seller or a buyer. Many great buyers are lousy sellers.

    - If you're buying from someone who's obviously a kid, they don't mind advice if you do it nicely. e.g. tell then that it's better to put it in a bag before boxing it etc. Also if they are a kid, bear in mind that what we accept as normal (probably through our experiences at work etc) they don't, so don't forget to thank them if they get it right, as they probably went to special effort.

    - I always build everything I recieve, partly because it's fun, but, as already mentioned, to make sure it's complete. But why inventory it, just build it! This also helps you check for things you might not find otherwise as you tend to look at the bricks more carefully...., e.g. one set I got had algae inside a bunch of bricks, it was revolting. Another (technics) had a bunch of parts that had been heavily stressed (probably by adding high powered motors to it at some point). You wouldn't have been able to tell this just by looking at them.

    - I would actually recommend always washing mixed sets, as some of them have been around collecting germs from kids hands for the last 30 years. I didn't always do this in the early days, but regret it now, and plan to go back and wash everything. It's much easier to wash them as they come in.

    - ALWAYS leave feedback, it helps everyone else.

    - And finally, and I cant believe nobody's mentioned this, but NEVER bid except in the last minute. You're just wasting everyone's time and putting the prices up for us all. It's statisically proven that people who enter their first bid in the last minute are much more likely to get things at the price they want, and that those who enter bids early rarely suceed. Bidding wars only help the seller, and are the buyer's enemy.

    - The need to bid late is especially the case if you buy a lot of lego, because some people will see someone's bid on something, look at their feedback to see if they buy a lot of lego, and if they do, then assume that this one is worth having. Sheep-like I know, but it happens, and can really lose you money.

    - You'll often pay more for auctions ending at the weekend, because they come to the top of everyone's list of 'ending soon' and others are more likely to be around to place last minute bids.

    Hope that's useful

    Simon

  • IstokgIstokg MichiganMember Posts: 2,100
    For you USA folks who buy or sell off of EBAY.... here's some useful tips from EBAY sellers forum... my favorite line is "the USPS treats parcel post boxes like bails of hay"...
    http://reviews.ebay.com/POSTAL-INSURANCE-USPS-How-does-it-work_W0QQugidZ10000000006945849

    If it's fragile... send it Priority Mail...

    Cheers,
    Gary Istok
  • Halberd777Halberd777 Member Posts: 32
    I also wanted to add something that I have not read yet in this post.

    Although I love combined shipping on bids be very careful on this. Oftentimes you can be duped into bidding for several different items that you did not want and the one item you want fell through but the items you wanted just for the combined shipping end up yours 9 times out of 10 that will happen. Also steer clear of the professional minfigure sellers for combined shipping. I once bought 4 small items and paid $13.00 in shipping for items that would not even amount to half a pound. Also make sure to check what the seller says about combined shipping sometimes they tell you to request an invoice before paying and others are already included in paypal.

    Thats my thoughts on combined shipping. I do want to add something on what the long named UK at the end said. Awesome tips by the way. Feed back quickest way for a new buyer to gain great reviews is to pay at the time you won the bid. I was so suprised when I first started buying off of Ebay that alot of sellers will rave about you if you pay the same time you one the bid. The store analogy is great do not bid unless you can pay for the item.

    Oh and I have to say if you are a seller please for my sake stop saying RARE, COOL, NICE etc.... I can tell who is going to rip me off or not based on all the wonderful terms put in the top blurb and that also goes for advice be careful when bidding on items from people that have all the tricky catchphrases and sales pitches.

    ALSO STOP WITH THE ANNOYING CAPS FOR SELLING. EVERYONE KNOWS THAT IF YOU WRITE IN CAPS YOU ARE YELLING SO PLEASE SELLERS THAT IS ONLY ANNOYING.
  • MatthewMatthew Cheshire, UKAdministrator Posts: 3,734
    edited August 2011
    --
  • Halberd777Halberd777 Member Posts: 32
    Si_dorking Surrey etc UK guy has alot of awesome info so everyone read his link. I have personally experianced all of the pitfalls that he has talked about having just come back again from the dark ages and started buying off of auction sites. I like to re-iterate a few things he points out really more as a homage and also because these points would have helped me out instead of learning the hard way from the pocket book.

    Bidding - don't wait for the last minute you can then bid. The biggest object is for you to remain neutral in this bid war. Set a price never go over it and realize their will always be another item and probably for cheaper, so let that one go. I just recently one an item off of an auction site and then the same item later for $15.00 cheaper. Granted I wanted duplicates of this copy but you get my point.

    Tactics for bidding -

    1. All or nothing this is when you have the money and want the item. It works the best if you get it from the first or second bid starting at a low price preferably at 0. This is the easiest bid to track requiring you not to really keep track of the item because e-bay will track it for you. One thing you do need to know is how much this item usually goes for off of ebay. If you know the item try to go just below the usual items price including shipping and handling.

    2. Smart Bidder This is where you just watch the item to the end then bid. This is obviously the best way to bid and if there were not for #@*&! bidders we would all get great prices from merchants and drive the prices down. Really we should all bid this way but honestly I think most of us get to involved with the items and try to bid but then the next guy has to compete and boom expensive item bought. Really work to try and get to the point that you can look so objectively that you will only buy a steal. I am still working on this so trust me it is hard but somethings that will help is to remind yourself you don't need that item instantly. You will cherish it more if you get it for a great price. I still remember one of my good buys from E-bay $15.00 including shipping for 20lbs of assorted legos and 15 figures and that was one of those times that I saw it for 99 cents last minute bid for it and won it. There are many greater stories than this from others in another thread but I wanted to just add this for you to see what can happen if you Smart bid.

    I am sure there are many other tactics but these are the main ones I wanted to share.

    One last addition to bidding if you are bidding for bulk legos, I have found that the least descriptive in bulk legos the better chance for a cheaper price. This is a very tricky way to buy bulk lego but if you use common sense (which honestly is not used much on online auctions because everyone gets riled up trying to buy the obvious) you will get great deals. The $15.00 bulk lego, that I described above, Was just from one picture and it was all in a blue lego tub. Nobody wanted to buy it because they could not see much of the legos. It was a gamble but if you learn to use tactics when bidding you will develop a good sense of how to tell a good deal. Also item weight I know someone said stay away from buying base off of pieces however realize how much pieces can way 1,000 pieces can wieght a bit. I also found if someone uses wieght not in lbs like gallons for instance every regular bidder gets stuck and does not bid on that bulk item. Use the internet to get an estimate of the wieght and bid away.

    Well thats enough of my two sense and if expert bidders want to comment on this go right ahead I really am just putting down what I have learned the hard way and am still learning.
  • prof1515prof1515 EarthMember Posts: 1,561
    I just did this yesterday on eBay so it occurred to me that I'd make another suggestion here. I often ask sellers what type of shipping package and materials they use and give them instructions on both what I would find acceptable as well as where they can get them at a reasonable cost. This has the dual effect of informing them that I will expect the items to be shipped in secure, not cheap and easily-damaged, packaging and that I'm aware of what constitutes a reasonable shipping rate. If they insist on a higher rate, I insist on negative feedback or report them directly for charging unreasonable shipping. I do not tolerate sellers who think that shipping charges are a means of padding their sale profits. I reported one yesterday for charging $100 shipping on a $1 opening bid. Sure, the object in question was worth $100 but if they want that much for it, they should offer it with Buy It Now instead of trying to use shipping to guarantee their price.
  • atkinsaratkinsar Member Posts: 4,272
    ^ I report those too, but I find it rarely gets pulled by ebay. Since this directly affects ebay's profit, I would have thought they'd be all over these listings without prompting.

    Some great tips by all in this thread by the way.
  • Si_UKNZSi_UKNZ NZMember Posts: 4,179
    ^ Ive found they do get pulled if reported. Note that in the UK at least the problem's worse than that because if theres a problem the postage costs are non refundable under the law therefore youd hardly get any refund.
  • JP3804JP3804 Member Posts: 332
    ^ Ebay is changing thier fee structure on July -6-11. Currently Ebay doesn't charge fees on shipping, just on the sale price. They are changing thier fees so sellers will pay fees on the sale price plus shipping. They state that this is to reward sellers for keeping shipping cost down. Hope it works. They are also making other changes like adding shopping carts so you can pay for all of your items at once, even from multiple sellers. Should be interesting to see if it works.
  • Si_UKNZSi_UKNZ NZMember Posts: 4,179
    @JP3804
    "shopping carts so you can pay for all of your items at once, even from multiple sellers"

    This already happens, has done for a while
  • JP3804JP3804 Member Posts: 332
    ^ Only for select buyers in the USA
  • Si_UKNZSi_UKNZ NZMember Posts: 4,179
    ^ Nope, Im in the UK and I get it all the time, it's the "Pay all your sellers at once" screen.
  • QueenBQueenB Member Posts: 20
    Re: Bidding in the last minute...
    Of course you should only put in your maximum bid in the last minute but if no-one has bid, and depending on what the Lego is, I like to bid the starting price to make sure the vendor can't change the price or remove the auction. When I have sold things and noticed that there is little interest, I might edit the listing to put up the start price so I don't lose out. I couldn't do this if someone had already bid.
  • bahnstormerbahnstormer Member Posts: 180
    prof1515 , the $1 BIN and the $100 shipping is used to avoid ebay fees, actually against their T&Cs. seen someone from hong kong with minifigs trying this out recently.

    on ebay UK the ebay and PP fees work out at 15.75% in total, add another 3% if you sell in USD. the $100 shipping only incurs the PP fee of c. 4% instead of c.16-18%, giving the seller an additional $10-12 margin.
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