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Bricklinking 10179 UCS Millenium Falcon

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Comments

  • hippoeaterhippoeater Member Posts: 30
    edited September 2012
    Incase anyone is interested, I am selling my Instruction Manuals for my recently purchased and put together UCS Millennium Falcon.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGO-10179-Millennium-Falcon-Ultimate-Collectors-UCS-INSTRUCTIONS-Booklet-/280961308959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416a99591f
  • coachiecoachie South WalesMember Posts: 476
    Out of interest, and to those who have the spreadsheet/ wanted list loaded into Bricklink, how much would it cost to build a BOLOCs Falcon using all the cheapest available new parts in any colour?

    It would be interesting to see, and then get a quote from Chrome Bricks for plating the parts.

    I would also like to see a multicolored one, maybe with a flag motif on.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Coachie: The biggest advantage to someone making one out of parts with teh wrong colour would be if they already had a lot of the parts in the wrong colour. For the most common parts (probably 90-95% of the set) there would be very little difference in the parts price between colours. If you do not care at all about colour (because everything gets coated then you would probably be able to bricklink everything you need for about £500. Biggest savings would be in the dish, the rigging, the levers. Are you talking about coating the parts or building it in multicolour and then coating? Does the coating process mess with the clutch of the pieces or is the coat so thin it makes no difference?
  • LegoboyLegoboy 100km furtherMember Posts: 8,769
    It's an amazing idea @coachie. I look forward to seeing it one day - The Ultimate UCS Millennium Falcon.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 0 miles to Legoboy's houseMember Posts: 11,409
    This is the problem with Bricklinking a set. I just built the Haunted House and there is a noticeable difference between the Sand Green parts used in Green Grocer and the Statue of Liberty. The Haunted House Sand Green is a darker shade and the mold used to create this1x6 part is different as well.
  • Pitfall69Pitfall69 0 miles to Legoboy's houseMember Posts: 11,409
    This is what I was talking about previously about purchasing a used UCS MF and knowing whether you got an original set or a Brickkinked one.
  • hoyatableshoyatables Northern Virginia, USAMember Posts: 868
    Following up on a question I've asked before -- do the various inventories (Bricklink, Peeron, etc) actually capture the right number of parts? I'm finding myself left with some extras, and it is driving me absolutely batty. I've gone over the instructions a half dozen times and can't seem to figure it out. Any known duplicate pieces (other than the usual 1x1s)?
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Hoyatables: Are some of those duplicates for the info plaque stand that you may or may not have any intention of building? I used the rebrickable invntory and then printed out the inventory sheet of the instruction manual (downloaded) and crossed off the components as I went along.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    BTW: Just got onto [email protected] customer services to request a price for my remaining items. They are only offering black rigging right now. Unless I can get a single piece for £50, i'm going to buy black and paint it.
  • LegoboyLegoboy 100km furtherMember Posts: 8,769
    ^ Me too, just now. They did't send them out, "....because they haven't come back into stock yet." I think that answers our question.
  • luckyrussluckyruss UKMember Posts: 872
    ^ and ^^ I called them up a few months back after I'd seen flump's post, and was told they didn't have any in lt bley because it was out of production - they just sent me some black ones (which I didn't really need!)
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    [email protected] customer services had sent me a huge flat fee for all the parts I want (and a lot of the parts are cheap,in production pieces, so the other pieces must have a huge individual price), so i've asked them for a breakdown of cost per part to see if the pick-a-brick price is significantly cheaper for anything. I don't know if they'll send me one or if it's too much bother for them. I presume they already have a table they can recall somewhere in the background of my order so that they can come to the price they quoted.
  • luckyrussluckyruss UKMember Posts: 872
    edited September 2012
    ^ I think they do. In the past I've called them up and have been talked through the price for each lot, which is reading down the table you suggest. It's a bit time consuming though - although if you know what price you will accept for each part / lot you can then ask them to edit / remove items from your order on the call and then get it placed.

    They are not pennies for each individual piece - some of the larger plates / technic pieces that are expensive on Bricklink will also cost 40p / 60p / 70p direct.
    Even some of the modified bricks with hinges, for example, that are 3p on bricklink are 20-25p (and to be fair, may require higher precision techniques to make than a 1x2 tile)
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    edited September 2012
    Luckyruss: I know what the going rate is on bricklink for my remaining pieces and what they should be going for on [email protected], making 1 big assumption.

    Assumption: I see a part on pickabrick in the wrong colour to the one I want. I assume that the same part in the colour I do want is the same price when ordering it through the "I lost a part" service within [email protected]

    I have a mix of extremely cheap and extremely expensive pieces remaining:-

    Expensive: The round LBG blocks that make the landing feet, the hoses, the 1 x 16 technic bricks (I have some of these), the yellow technic angles, some of the larger basic 1 x 12/1 x 16 LBG bricks.

    Expensive on Bricklink but should be cheap (relatively) on [email protected]: 1 x 3 wing bricks in LBG, the 1 x 4 wing plates in LBG, the LBG cog strips, some 8 x 8 LBG plates.

    Cheap on pickabrick for mainly unspecified colours: Jumper plates (2 x 1) and 2 x 2 tiles in all colours. Those 2 x 2 tiles just don't exist on bricklink unless there is a new number instead of 3068a that rebrickable assigned. 3 x 3 cut corner wedge plate in LBG.

    Assumed cheaper on [email protected]: 1 x 2 blocks with 2 x verical locking fingers in LBG - these should be around 20-25p each on [email protected] but are 58p each (min) on bricklink.

    There are still about 1/3 of the parts I need at a decent price on bricklink, but postage starts to mount up on small orders, really bumping up the individual piece price when it is absorbed into the order cost. I can get 1 x 2 jumpers on bricklink at 4p each, but you add postage and they can be got from [email protected] for 6p each etc.

    All in I need 613 pieces now and about 200 of those are about 6p each with [email protected] in alternative colours on pickabrick.

    The only obscure part that LTG don't have is the rigging. Whether that means they have alternative parts like the cones etc, I don't know.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Maybe an alternative parts list would be handy on this thread, things that maybe are hard to get hold of (or very expensive) in completely original form, but the newest equivalent is nigh on identical e.g the slotted technic connector barrels, the blue technic pins (long).
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Is there any difference between 3068a (none around on bricklink) and 3068b (which is plentiful)? Is b just newer version of a? Do they look the same when fitted? One is grooved - is that on the clutch side vs a clutch stud centrally on version a?
  • hoyatableshoyatables Northern Virginia, USAMember Posts: 868
    Availability varies by region as well - I was shocked to see that some parts are readily available in the UK and Europe yet really hard to find in the US. Examples include the white 2x2 plates with pins and the LBG 2x4 slopes.

    Another idea to consider re: the "replaceable parts" that are slightly different or even a different color (e.g. the cones with or without the top groove). Swap in another set that has the same part, so you can use the "correct" part on the Falcon. That worked well for me with a couple of tough to find parts. The Hoth sets use both LBG 2x4 slopes (they are hidden under the snowspeeder's wings) and 1x1 DBG cones without the groove (the groove end connects to the guns so you don't ever see them.
  • hoyatableshoyatables Northern Virginia, USAMember Posts: 868

    Hoyatables: Are some of those duplicates for the info plaque stand that you may or may not have any intention of building? I used the rebrickable invntory and then printed out the inventory sheet of the instruction manual (downloaded) and crossed off the components as I went along.

    Nope, (though I did stupidly order 4x4 dark bley plates for that even though I don't have the sticker). The extra parts I am looking at are things like an extra light bley umbrella stand, extra dark bley binoculars, extra light bley 1x3 claw arms, so on and so forth. Basically all the little greebling pieces that go on top of the Falcon.

    At first I thought I either miscounted or failed to account for when I subbed in a piece from my personal collection, but I've now gone through the instructions and counted the various pieces on the Falcon multiple times and can't account for the extra pieces.

  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939

    Availability varies by region as well - I was shocked to see that some parts are readily available in the UK and Europe yet really hard to find in the US. Examples include the white 2x2 plates with pins and the LBG 2x4 slopes.

    Another idea to consider re: the "replaceable parts" that are slightly different or even a different color (e.g. the cones with or without the top groove). Swap in another set that has the same part, so you can use the "correct" part on the Falcon. That worked well for me with a couple of tough to find parts. The Hoth sets use both LBG 2x4 slopes (they are hidden under the snowspeeder's wings) and 1x1 DBG cones without the groove (the groove end connects to the guns so you don't ever see them.

    For all the cones you need, that's a lot of snowspeeders! I have only placed 1 non-EU bricklink order, and it was for a USA seller. At $20 spent, it should just slip under the Customs limit and avoid the £8.00 "handling" fee that Royal Mail charges on top (they're as bad as Ryanair!).
  • hoyatableshoyatables Northern Virginia, USAMember Posts: 868

    For all the cones you need, that's a lot of snowspeeders! I have only placed 1 non-EU bricklink order, and it was for a USA seller. At $20 spent, it should just slip under the Customs limit and avoid the £8.00 "handling" fee that Royal Mail charges on top (they're as bad as Ryanair!).

    Fair enough -- I only needed a couple to replace the ones that were glued on the set I purchased on craigslist, so it was a much easier endeavor for me :).

  • sidersddsidersdd USAMember Posts: 2,432

    Is there any difference between 3068a (none around on bricklink) and 3068b (which is plentiful)? Is b just newer version of a? Do they look the same when fitted? One is grooved - is that on the clutch side vs a clutch stud centrally on version a?

    3068a and 3068b will look identical except where the profile of the tile can be seen. Even then it's a small difference that would mostly only matter on microbuilds. See this thread:
    http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/comment/80559/
  • prevereprevere North of Bellville, East of Heartlake, South of Bricksburg, West of Ninjago City Member Posts: 2,901
    @ Brick_Obsession - I wish you the absolute best of luck with the UCS X-Wing. I recently bought an incomplete one and purchased the last of the Bellville flower pots "aka" engines available on BL.

    Add me to your nemesis list...
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    386 parts left to get.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    [email protected] Customer services say they can't provide a parts price breakdown but claim to be cheaper than bricklink in most cases for an item that is available in pickabrick. Assuming they add a service charge for every picked item that isn't on pickabrick, I kept going with the bricklinking for those parts that are the same as or a few pence more than the pickabrick price for alternative colours.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Inconsistent availability of items via [email protected] customer service. On my 700ish parts list they were only short of the bley rigging, now i'm down to £80ish 2 days later, they're short of the 3 x 2 wing brick (not plate) in left (but not right???), the 1 x 2 plate with stud in dark red, the 6.4cm hose, the umbrella stand and rigging (did not offer black part).
  • ringleheimringleheim Member Posts: 168

    BTW: Just got onto [email protected] customer services to request a price for my remaining items. They are only offering black rigging right now. Unless I can get a single piece for £50, i'm going to buy black and paint it.

    The topic of painting the black rigging pieces gray has come up a few times in this thread.

    For those who are not used to painting things, I thought I'd offer some comments which may help as someone who has built model kits for 30 years.

    If you need advice on painting, you probably don't already own an airbrush and air compressor, but that is by far the best way to paint the pieces. You can custom mix the paint color to a perfect match and apply the paint in ultra thin, controlled layers.

    If you do not have an airbrush/compressor, a rattle can of spray paint will suffice, as long as you can find a suitable shade of gray.

    A couple of tips regarding the painting: lightly sand the rigging piece with a low grit (high number) piece of sandpaper or a well used nail file. This will provide a "tooth" for the paint to stick to.

    Warm up the spray paint can in warm water. Let it sit in the water for 5 or 10 minutes and the spray will be atomized much better; you will have more control over the paint and it will come out in a much finer mist.

    Always apply multiple ultra-light coats rather than try to get good paint coverage in a single application. Apply the paint as lightly as you can, and let it dry between coats. Apply the paint in a sweeping motion, with the paint spraying before you get to the piece to be painted and continue painting after you have passed the piece by.

    You can apply a clearcoat to the paint to better match the shine of the other Lego pieces in the MF. Clearcoats are avaiable in matte, semi-gloss and gloss finishes. You might want to experiment with different ones to see which shine is the best matching. I would think semi-gloss or even gloss would be best, but "shine" alters from manufacturer to manufacturer.

    If you shoot clearcoat and it is too glossy relative to the regular lego pieces, once dry, you can lightly rub the painted piece with 000 or 0000 steel wool to knock the shine down a bit.

    When you attach the rigging piece, you are likely going to scrape the paint where it contacts other Lego pieces. My advice would be to apply the piece gently, and once "attached" do not play with it at all. Leave it there and don't play with it.

    The strongest paint which will resist scraping the best will be a lacquer paint. Next best would be enamel. Acrylic would be the worst choice, but that is rarely offered in a spray can anyway.

    I am not sure how the set is designed in terms of attaching the rigging pieces. I assume they pop onto "hook" pieces of some sort. If you want to get brave, you could VERY lightly scrape the inside of the hooks with a new razor blade, or roll up a small piece of sandpaper into a tube and slide it back and forth within the hook. You will increase the space inside the hook slightly and this will offset the added thickness of the painted rigging piece, so as to reduce or eliminate scraping off of paint from your painted rigging piece.

    As long as you are willing to leave the rigging piece alone as part of a displayed set that you don't really play with, painting will work just fine.

    I personally think this is by far the best approach if you do not have gray rigging pieces and don't want to pay the high prices for gray parts on the aftermarket.

    Once your painted rigging pieces are in place, even if shine levels or paint color is a bit "off" the pieces will blend right into the overall massive MF. I think unpainted black rigging pieces, in contrast, would instantly jump out and appear "not right" in contrast.

    Hope this helps someone on here!
  • Mad_DogMad_Dog SpainMember Posts: 71
    That is my idea, as I have both airbrush and compressor from my modeling hobby, also I have several (lots...) shades of gray from aircraft modelling that I am sure will be very handy.

    Rgrds
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Ringleheim: Some good tips there. I would never have thought to have the spray can warming up in warm water first to up the spray pressure. I think hollowing the clips the mast mounts on will be a must and a nail file or fine sand paper in the gap is probably the best way to go. I already have 1 mast piece, so if I can find the other sold singly for less than £50 i'll get it. For a bricklinker to have waited so long to amass the parts needed, lots of ultra light coats shouldn't be a problem - patience is a virtue. Better to put not enough on than too much (per coat).
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Back onto [email protected], I rang up to try and order the remaining parts and get an answer to the suddenly missing parts. By phone you can only place 15 lines of parts, so from my remaining parts I had to list in priority the most expensive and least available on bricklink. For the parts I ordered (299 mainly large or rare parts) it came to £98 delivered and going off cheapest prices for items ordered would be £246 on bricklink not including any postage. The mystery available then unavailable parts are down to minor element changes that the email based quoter hadn't looked for. The female agent online found the other items that have changed elements.

    There is definitely a 2 tiered level of service on [email protected] Go online and if something isn't straightforward then they won't look into the options. Speak to someone on the phone and they will do all they can for you.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Well Lego let me down. I got all my "lost a brick" service replacements over 2 orders (they will only do 15 lines each order when you ring up, and I wanted 26. One bag was one yellow angle short. This was by far the bigger of the 2 and if they check-weigh, perhaps the bag was within tolerable limits.

    The second bag with maybe only 100 pieces in was missing 2 lines - that is one of the 4 x 4 wedge curve things (that make up the back of the turret guns in DBG, and all 6 rader dishs in black were'nt there. There was one extra piece in there though, a dark red curved 1 x 10 brick (like the kind used for helicopter blades). I know the radar dishes weigh almost nothing, but the 4 x 4 curved wedge has a bit of weight to it.

    I will be phoning them today to get them replaced. The absence of teh yellow angle is most disappointing as it means I w't be able to get the structure made over the weekend. 7 pieces missing from approx 380 is very poor on their part
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    I have enclosed an excel table with my Lego purchases on them vs Bricklink price. These were all ordered because the Majority of the pieces looked likely to be cheaper through Lego than Bricklink, and for the few left, it wasn't economically viable to keep getting hammered on postage for multiple small bricklink orders. Everything else I bought through bricklink as it was cheaper, or I already had it. Hopefully this will save any future 10179 bricklinkers a canny bit of cash on certain expensive or hard to find (via bricklink) items.

    Part Colour BL Price (EU) each [email protected] price each

    4210815 Gun Bar Dark Stone 8p 28.8p
    4211887 * Umbrella stand Mid Stone 175p 4.95p
    4502460 2 Rigging Black 58p 121.1p
    4211522 1 x 12 brick Mid Stone 29p 46.37p
    4211366 1 x 16 brick Mid Stone 97p 48.68p
    4260409 Curved special 4 long Mid Stone 48p 26.64p
    4211527 Round brick with holes Mid Stone 76p 56.57p
    4509865 Lattice Dish Black 12p 34.4p
    4211694 2 x 1 brick V fingers Mid Stone 72p 25.47p
    4166618 8 x 8 plate Mid Stone 108p 83.7p
    4176959 1 x 2 plate with stud Dark Red 6p 6p
    4293876 2 x 2 plate with peg White none available 18.76p
    4249039 1 x 1 round stud Chrome 79p 1.2p
    4509915 4 x 2 slope Mid Stone none available 18.38p
    4256828 1 x 16 technic brick Dark Stone 115p 48.675p
    4257699 Technic 90 angle Yellow 134p 67.75p
    4211450 Gear rack 1 x 4 Mid Stone 37p 16.92p
    4211560 * 3 x 2 wing wedge L Mid Stone 68p 25.46p
    4211559 3 x 2 wing wedge R Mid Stone 78p 25.82p
    4250256 4 x 4 special wedge Dark Stone 11p 32.4p
    4211361 3 x 3 cut corner plate Mid Stone 5p 15.21p
    4211735 4 x 2 Wing plate L Mid Stone 67p 14.47p
    4211732 4 x 2 Wing plate R Mid Stone 66p 14.87p

    * Replacement part number 4538098
    ** Replacement part number 4527767

    If you're after any dark red items, they will have an alternative number that the operator will have to search for as there is a newer shade of dark red.
  • iso3200iso3200 97 miles from Brickset TowersMember Posts: 2,048
    Resurrectting a very old thread here, but I've decided to Bricklink a Falcon myself. I've got about 70% of parts ordered so far, but its time to get a few of the odd bits.

    I know I won't be buying the 28x4 grey rigging pieces as they are far too expensive, but I'm looking to get two of them in black, part number 47996 (or Lego code 4502460). At a push a pair of brown ones. I'll probably end up painting them to match Light Bluish Grey so an extra one to practice on wouldn't go amiss.

    I just wondered if there's anyone who's bricklinked a Falcon may have a pair of spare blacks they'd be willing to sell for a sensible amount. All the black ones on BL are in the EU, with minimum spends and postage costs. Ideally you'd be in the UK but I'm open to offers.

    PM me if you can help.

    Ta!
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    I'm sure I have 2 black ones, but bit the bullet and ordered a LBG, as I already had one. I'm on holiday in Mexico right now, but if you can wait 2 weeks they're yours (assuming I can find them). I'm from the UK.
  • iso3200iso3200 97 miles from Brickset TowersMember Posts: 2,048
    That would be fab! Thanks :-)
  • Bosstone100Bosstone100 USAMember Posts: 1,429
    Has anyone attempted this lately? Does anyone have a spreadsheet on which parts can be easily substituted? Where do the rigging pieces go? Are they visible?

    Full Disclosure: I have pretty much none of the parts... but I haven't bricklinked anything in a while so may or may not even bother.
  • BastaBasta Australia Member Posts: 1,259
    Riging is seen, if you don't mind black (new pirate ship looks to have it) you would save a heap, or paint as mentioned above. The little levers are impossible to get too, so sub for black.

    With no substitutions the 6 month BL sales average is $2635USD (no instructions), shipping is on top of that price. So not really worth doing IMO.

    Now if you are doing subs and use Bricks & Pieces for some parts you will get that price down, it would still be expensive though.
  • ColoradoBricksColoradoBricks Denver, CO, USAMember Posts: 1,660
    I started a few months ago, you can reference that thread, it has some of the substitutions:
    http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/15680/building-a-millenium-falcon-10179-for-under-900-w-s-h. It links to a blog where for example those rigging pieces are pictured.
    I had the BL cost imported in Brickstore and started to the expensive lots/pieces and evaluate substitutions based on picture, etc, looks tidious at first but once you are in the grove it is almost a fun game :)
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    edited January 2015

    Has anyone attempted this lately? Does anyone have a spreadsheet on which parts can be easily substituted? Where do the rigging pieces go? Are they visible?

    Full Disclosure: I have pretty much none of the parts... but I haven't bricklinked anything in a while so may or may not even bother.

    I saw a minor substitution for the rigging that worked very well (looked better than the rigging IMO) on someone's Hoth display piece (MF parked up in the Hoth hangar). They'd used a number of the short ladder pieces (like the black one you'll find on the side of the GB Ecto 1 set) in LBG colour, 3 or 4 on each side linked together to get the same effect.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939

    Has anyone attempted this lately? Does anyone have a spreadsheet on which parts can be easily substituted? Where do the rigging pieces go? Are they visible?

    Full Disclosure: I have pretty much none of the parts... but I haven't bricklinked anything in a while so may or may not even bother.

    Although I did mine quite a while ago, I had a comprehensive list of parts on this thread that were cheaper to source through Lego themselves than bricklink - I doubt that situation has changed for those parts. As for the levers, if "ye-olde" light grey levers are still available very cheap, it's worth pulling the levers out of the bodies and substituting for freely available black levers that come with LBG bases.

  • LobotLobot UKMember Posts: 976
    edited January 2015
    I built one a couple of years ago, and sourced everything new. The total was just under £600 including some of the minifigures, using both Bricklink & the LEGO 'Replacement'/'Pick a Brick' sites. I swapped the usual parts (levers, dish, large technic pins and a few of the smaller bits - the details are on Eurobricks if you're interested), but the overall result looked pretty good:

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8644022073/

    I was looking for another project this winter and decided to build another one, just to see if it was still possible for a reasonable cost, much to my wife's dismay! I managed to get the black 6558s for a (reasonable) cost, but otherwise I'll be using the same replacements again. I'm currently at just over 4,000 parts (I'm waiting for the 'Replacement' site to re-open before making the final orders) but the final total is hovering around £600-£625. If you want the minifigures as well, I'd guess you're looking at around £650+
  • iso3200iso3200 97 miles from Brickset TowersMember Posts: 2,048
    I decided to embark on this project about 18 months ago, thinking I'd have it all bought and ready to go within 3 months. Originally I thought I'd just make it as cheap as possible using used parts and substitutions everywhere. However once I'd started, I soon realised that it would bug the hell out of me to not have it just right. So....

    I've got most of it accurate now with the exception of the grey rigging and the levers (I've gone for the old gray/LBG base combination). At the time the big radar dish was reasonable - I paid £30 for mine - they're double that now. The only other bit I've skimped on (but will probably change my mind) is the 3456 Dark Red Plate which I've made out of a couple of smaller plates. I've bought new parts wherever possible.

    I first started with a bulk order from a European Bricklink shop to get a vast amount of parts, about £250 worth. Other bits and bobs I sourced from the UK and I found that a lot of it actually worked out better buying from Lego Replacement Parts. Some items weren't available on there so I waited until they reappeared. It's easy to forget about factoring in postage costs so I felt it was easier to use LRP for dribs and drabs rather than itty bitty orders from Bricklink.

    Soon I found I didn't really have the money to drop on the rest, so the project stalled a little while I bought other things, like food and clothing. I sourced the remaining parts as and when I could as it had become less of a priority. I think I stopped counting around the £500 mark.

    I have got all the minifigs for it, and a printed (copied) manual. At a guess it's around £700 cost to me, as I gave up being careful. Still much cheaper than a used example with original box. I expect to make that back when I sell it as well.

    For now, it's just a massive blow to my cupboard space as I haven't found the time time yet to build the thing. I know it will take a fair bit of commitment, and my usual haphazard way of working probably won't help me much.

    There is no new UCS version coming (well not at this scale anyway) so I know I can take my time to build it without worrying about the investment of time and money going to down the toilet next year.

    I'd like to find a pic of the Hoth Hangar version that @monkeyhanger mentioned to see what that is like. Might be a good alternative to painting the black rigging pieces I have (thanks to @monkeyhanger again for those!)

    It's definitely a project worth doing. Another Bricksetter helped me out with a spreadsheet to get started but I soon found out that using it to work out the financials got scary so I ignored that and just used it as an offline inventory to check off my parts.

    Another bit of advice - don't work late and order your parts. I cocked up and double ordered a few through tiredness. Likewise I'm bound to find out at build time I forgot to buy something...

    I will post on this thread when I finally build her.


  • LobotLobot UKMember Posts: 976
    ^I think this is the one @monkeyhanger was referring to:

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/thire5/14336998712/
    iso3200
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 2,939
    Iso3200: It's on Eurobricks, the whole hangar creation is just amazing:

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/thire5/14336998712/in/set-72157644987272142
    iso3200
  • iso3200iso3200 97 miles from Brickset TowersMember Posts: 2,048
    I'd been snooping around Eurobricks and hadn't got that far... Funnily enough, what I did buy from the PAB wall today but a dozen of those LBG ladder pieces. I'll give it a go when I get that far. It looks really good.
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