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We were mildly surprised to see gunk on the modules after a day or so, but there were very few painted balls and no tyres on our layout, so it must have been dust.
Here's the info on it - https://www.brickscascade.com
Convention is 2/28-3/3, public expo is 3/2-3/3
Not sure when I'll do another one, I'm seriously running out of space in my Lego room. I have been for a while, but I really really am now!
I had never seen a GBC before and didn’t even know what one was until recently. There’s a whole new dimension to Lego I had never known!
Since I got back into Lego, in my own building, I’ve only really thought about aesthetics. To me, a ‘successful’ model was one that looked like what it was meant to be...
But these GBC were truly hypnotic. I’ve been certainly prompted to think about how Lego is so versatile. This wasn’t a toy - it was a machine.
It wouldn’t have been out of place in a factory.
Can I ask where would a newbie start? What’s the simplest movement to recreate?
And thanks for the printed Brickset piece, Huw!
As for a good machine to start with, I suspect we'll all answer differently, but if you want to go the primarily studless route then start where I did, with this module by Maico Arts: http://greatballcontraption.nl/bi/Skaerbaek2017-v0.11-without-light.pdf, which is 100% reliable and a good one to have in the circuit to act as a ball reservoir and rate limiter. I had three of them yesterday: 2 slightly longer ones, which make good corner units.
I built one, but my attempted to power it did not have it running smoothly. I ended up being too jerky so we had to pull it from the circuit. I think I was using an M-motor to power a screw gear, which in turn powered a gear on the drive axle.
And also that: "It's bad enough organising it for Brickish, it would be a nightmare for a purely virtual LUG."
I suggest you join a physical LUG should you wish to take advantage of it.
I'm alright Jack, I ordered a few hundred in last year's lugbulk. Still came to almost £100 for them...
The amount of load it's under is probably more likely to be the contributing factor rather than time operating.
Is your 'rigging' providing a clean 9v DC?
I thinking of cutting a 9v cable, soldering it either on the contacts that the battery box touch or to the battery box itself, then taking the wire out through a hole that I'll drill, but I'm not sure the best place for that to go.
The 9v connector can then, of course, be connected to a train controller.