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75192 UCS Millennium Falcon Display Ideas / Stands / Supports / Etc

124

Comments

  • Pate5346Pate5346 Member Posts: 893
    edited March 2018
    @colay I'm quite new to this as well although I've used Bricklink a few times although first time for a project ( MF stand ) recently. Didn't use rebrickable yet.

    And looking at it not always someone who's got 100% parts is the cheapest one. ( but you have to take into account a postage on BL which can add significant amount )
    I still compare prices on BL with Lego as pick a brick counts towards freebies plus you get points and over certain amount the postage is free.

    I'm founding it all as a learning curve.

    I think my next project will be the hangar although it'll be quite expensive with 8k of parts. I'm starting this weekend to see what is on the wall in Lego store.



  • Habitant99Habitant99 Member Posts: 99
    monkeyhanger said:
    Habitant99 said:
    I modded the Efferman to be more horizontal than vertical to fit my space, and you can get away with some color on the stand to save a few bucks.  Probably about 70% of it needs to be in black, though.  Some of the parts were literally 1/5th the price in another color, so I might have some orange here & there... :)
    The 95% black option is about 20% cheaper than the 99% LBG option for a European buyer on Bricklink right now. I will check my parts bin for what I might have (only the small stuff), but it might mean the difference between 2 orders or 3. Then I will buy. 

    I'd still rather be doing a Hoth Hangar scene if I had the room.
    The most expensive piece for me - buying in the US - were some technic connectors in black, which I remember being kind of odd.  I also probably paid about 5% more than I should have because I found a seller that had everything, and decided to go for that route. 

    I've toyed around with the idea (no pun intended) of doing a Hoth hangar scene as well, it's just finding the time (and finding the bricks in white).  Might need to raid my daughter's very large Friends collection given that they use a ton of white bricks in that theme...  Shhh... don't tell.
  • Pate5346Pate5346 Member Posts: 893
    Any links to the Hoth hangar scene? 
  • Habitant99Habitant99 Member Posts: 99
    Pate5346 said:
    Any links to the Hoth hangar scene? 
    Scroll down a bit on this page, this one looks insane:  http://picssr.com/photos/thire5?nsid=40552728@N07


    AstrobricksJooTog
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 3,170
    I've just bought and paid for the bits required for Efferman's stand in as black as you can get it (2 pin types and one technic part type unavailable in black). £45 inclusive of about £12 shipping from Bulgaria and Hungary between 2 stores. Greedy Paypal conversion rate of Euros to Pounds though.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 3,170
    I have 90% of the parts needed now from the Bulgarian Bricklink Store, bit of a delay from the Hungarian one for the other odds and sods as they didn't actually have what I bought, so they're ordering in. Just got to decide what i'm losing to put it in its place - looking a lot like GB Headquarters and Mercedes Arocs.
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 3,170
    I have finished my Elfman stand in black and attached. 

    A lot of the upper plating broke and had to be fixed. A few parts dropped off that took some going through the manual to check where they came from (tan 4x1 brick from the closed box that supports the upper ramp-like panel between the mandibles; the holed 4x2 LBG plate that covers the compartment where Han asks to be passed the Hydrospanners - just held by gravity, no wonder it fell out when I flipped the MF over).

    So here it is, taking up probably 40% of the footprint it did when stood up (not yet in its final display place, but sat on the box it came in:-



    How it will look on the shelf.



    Side-on structure of the stand, and demonstrating the tilt.



    That sticker is telling me not to do what i'm going to do (dates aside).

    Might fill in the voids where the feet legs tied in to the framework, but who is going to see the underside of it on display anyway?

    The stand is a little flimsy/flexy before it is tied in to the MF structure, due to "U" shape. 5 red pins bite into the technic holes inside the foot holes, and the 8 x 2x1 plates help line up stand arms so you are perfectly lined up for those red pins.

    Gravity takes a little toll on panel alignment for the plating section that is between the dish and the tube assembly not on the cockpit side. If you look very carefully on the first pic, directly at the pointy end of the dark red 4x2 wings meeting, there is a 2x1/2x1 angle plate to extend the end just far enough to bite into the side end of the tube assembly to stop the sag clockwise.
    omniumbandit778stluxJooTogLobotAddicted2OxygenMr_CrossHanzo
  • SeanTheCollectorSeanTheCollector Member Posts: 765
    Muftak1 said:
    https://www.wickedbrick.com/collections/star-wars/products/display-stand-for-ucs-millennium-falcon-75192

    This is a pretty nifty piece
    How sturdy is this stand? After looking on the website and watching the video, it didn't give me a lot of confidence that it would stay together! Has anyone had their MF displayed on this stand for a while? What are your experiences?
  • MrJacksonMrJackson Member Posts: 454
    Has anyone done the Hangar Bay 327 MOC that's on ReBrickable? And if so, is there any way to trim the dimensions in all 4 directions so it's not quite as big? There seems to be some room on all four sides and my basement doesn't have a ton of extra room.

    https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-0631/jmfbtb/lego-docking-bay-327-for-ucs-falcon/#comments

    omniumFizyx
  • FizyxFizyx Member Posts: 1,363
    MrJackson said:
    Has anyone done the Hangar Bay 327 MOC that's on ReBrickable? And if so, is there any way to trim the dimensions in all 4 directions so it's not quite as big? There seems to be some room on all four sides and my basement doesn't have a ton of extra room.

    https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-0631/jmfbtb/lego-docking-bay-327-for-ucs-falcon/#comments


    Never seen this one before, but now that I have I really want to put THAT in a coffee table for the display.  (I don't have an answer to your question though, sorry :( )
    omnium
  • Muftak1Muftak1 Member Posts: 554
    SeanTheCollector said:
    Muftak1 said:
    https://www.wickedbrick.com/collections/star-wars/products/display-stand-for-ucs-millennium-falcon-75192

    This is a pretty nifty piece
    How sturdy is this stand? After looking on the website and watching the video, it didn't give me a lot of confidence that it would stay together! Has anyone had their MF displayed on this stand for a while? What are your experiences?
    To be honest, not only have I not opened the stand yet, I also haven't even started on the Falcon... I'll check out the stand and let you know what its like
    SeanTheCollector
  • Pate5346Pate5346 Member Posts: 893
    @monkeyhanger would you be able to measure the footprint of the stand with Falcon in it. I've build the stand but not Falcon yet as I'd like to do a display cabinet first before I build the Falcon. Thanks.
    MrJackson said:
    Has anyone done the Hangar Bay 327 MOC that's on ReBrickable? And if so, is there any way to trim the dimensions in all 4 directions so it's not quite as big? There seems to be some room on all four sides and my basement doesn't have a ton of extra room.

    https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-0631/jmfbtb/lego-docking-bay-327-for-ucs-falcon/#comments

    Not yet but collecting the parts for it so far have got about 70 %. And don't have an answer for you. Although I think You don't want to make it much smaller otherwise it's not going to look right with the Falcon in it. Just my opinion.
    Fizyx
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 3,170
    ^ Will do, Pate. You'll have to wait until tonight.
  • Pate5346Pate5346 Member Posts: 893
    @monkeyhanger thank you. There is no rush for the dimensions. 
  • MrJacksonMrJackson Member Posts: 454
    @Pate5346 Please let me know when you get done; I don't plan on getting to this project until the school year ends and I'm off work for the summer so there's no rush. Apparently my dad has a router that was my grandfather's so that's one less tool I need to buy so I can focus just on collecting parts. And I wasn't thinking of taking too much off, just an inch or two in either dimension.  I'd like to save as much space as possible but don't want to compromise the aesthetic. 
  • monkeyhangermonkeyhanger Member Posts: 3,170
    Pate: Just measured up, and allowing for a tiny 1cm allowance all around, a cabinet able to accomodate 86cm long x 58cm high x 36cm deep will do it. Need to get mine on a proper shelf as it is currently sat on the MF's shipping box on the stand.
  • JooTogJooTog Member Posts: 945
    Pate5346 said:
    @monkeyhanger would you be able to measure the footprint of the stand with Falcon in it. I've build the stand but not Falcon yet as I'd like to do a display cabinet first before I build the Falcon. Thanks.
    MrJackson said:
    Has anyone done the Hangar Bay 327 MOC that's on ReBrickable? And if so, is there any way to trim the dimensions in all 4 directions so it's not quite as big? There seems to be some room on all four sides and my basement doesn't have a ton of extra room.

    https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-0631/jmfbtb/lego-docking-bay-327-for-ucs-falcon/#comments

    Not yet but collecting the parts for it so far have got about 70 %. And don't have an answer for you. Although I think You don't want to make it much smaller otherwise it's not going to look right with the Falcon in it. Just my opinion.
    I’m also planning on building this, but I just started and have only collected the black 2x2 tiles so far.

    I am going to use 16x16 plates instead of baseplates to have it raised by two bricks. The reason is that the elevator is supposed to be at the floor level and the one in rebrickable is slightly raised. I figured how to have flat but the whole thing needs to be raised. It also allows the elevator to be a bit lower as if it is com8ng up (or down).
  • Pate5346Pate5346 Member Posts: 893
    @monkeyhanger
    Thank you for the dimensions. I'll may make it slightly bigger on each side so it doesn't look cramped plus intending to put LED strip around to light it up slightly as the cabinet may be darker shade of grey. I'll see how it goes.

    @MrJackson Not sure how quickly I'll get the rest of the parts as probably will now wait till early autumn or when there is some interesting promo on S&H. But I'll keep you posted.
  • ewokspyewokspy Member Posts: 2
    So when I stumbled upon this:

    Toker said:

    I was able to pick up an UCS Falcon last month, but have been waiting for a storage solution before building it. The coffee table solution seemed to be the easiest, but finding a table that would fit was a challenge.

    I decided to start with the Coaster Furniture Glass Top Coffee Table (Black Nickel) since the dimensions had some extra room. 54W x 23D x 15H in.



    I was determined to find a coffee table solution that would work

    So after measuring my completed falcon at 23.5" wide from port side to cockpit, since that sits a little further out, I found this:

    https://www.hayneedle.com/product/belham-living-lamont-coffee-black.cfm

    It is 24" wide making it just width enough, and sure enough it worked. Following Toker's instructions, I was able to create the table and it looks great! Even had room for Red 5 and BB-8. Total cost was about $260.



    Oh and notice the model has a mirrored bottom? Well that broke in shipping, so they refunded me the cost, but I decided that instead of throwing away the table, I just removed the mirror from it's base MDF board and used that without the mirror. Heck I might add sand base plates to complete the effect.

    Thanks @Toker for setting me off on the correct path. It was fun to make this!
    omniumbandit778Addicted2OxygenFizyxYo_dAWicksy80LittleLoriSwitchfoot55Hanzo
  • Rainstorm26Rainstorm26 Member Posts: 1,018
    I bought my MF last year.  I opened it to start building it with my son on Father's Day.  I open it up and guess what, I find the sticker sheet mangled with a giant crease across it.  Highly frustrating.  I'll be sending Lego CS a note and a request for a new sticker sheet, but really?  An $800 set and they can't get the bleeping sticker sheet to not be trashed like an $20 set?
  • gmonkey76gmonkey76 Member Posts: 1,833
    edited June 2018
    ^and that's why I always open my sets when I get home. I've over 3000 set with probably less than 1% built. I hate to open a. 5 year old box and find stickers that look like a dog ate them, and not be able to have LEGO send me a replacement.
  • ewokspyewokspy Member Posts: 2
    Yeah when I received my Falcon it looked like someone shoved the instruction book in. The entire back was creased and there was a tear in the back cover, but LEGO replaced the instruction book without much hassle. The customer rep even kept in character (regarding an insidious plot by the Sith) during the exchange.
    dmcc0MaffyD
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    maxnomer said:
    Hey all, I thought I'd show off my own Falcon display, after much research and weighing different options. (Thanks to many of you for the great ideas!) I, too, settled on the coffee table solution, and I really dig the results!

    ...
    Anyway, I hope you enjoy the pics! I couldn't be happier with the finished product :D
    That looks like a nice table. If that table was available when I was first looking, it would have been nice.
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    This is what I've been working on. I just need to put it together so I can fit the top part on correctly. 

    Oak wood all around. I used pocket hoIes to join the pieces. I routed a 0.25" track along all of the sides for the plexiglass. The pieces of wood in the middle are going to be used to join the top part.


    This is the removable top that will hold the glass.

    omniumKungFuKenny
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    I was originally going to stain the wood, but I used chalk paint on a few other things and I really love how easy it is to apply and also how it looks. I'm going for a two color distressed look.

    The first two coats are Napolean Blue. The paint was still a little wet when I took the pictures. I used a gold metallic for the track where the plexiglass will go.


    The top coat is Graphite. The next step was to sand away a little of the paint to expose the blue underneath.

    TXLegoguy
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    After distressing the piece in certain places, I applied wax for the top coat. I didn't distress the base of the table since I'm planning on doing a Lego desert landscape.



    You can see here the look I'm going for.

    BumblepantsLittleLoridmcc0pxchrisgmonkey76Addicted2Oxygenmadejp86TXLegoguy
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    Put some LED strip lights under the top supports. Now just waiting for my Pick-a-Brick order to show up so I can finish the display.


    KungFuKenny
  • GomjabaGomjaba Member Posts: 20
    I don't have a MF but the idea I had would upset purists and fans alike .I'd go with a table as well but slightly different  I castes in resin before and an idea was to cast the MF in clear resin and mount legs directly to the block. But can't justify the cost, nor do I have the room. So there's that. 
    Fizyx
  • Wicksy80Wicksy80 Member Posts: 596
    edited May 2019
    @Toker How’s your display coming along? Would love to see updated pic. 
  • colaycolay Member Posts: 547
    Wicksy80 said:
    @Toker How’s your display coming along? Would love to see updated pic. 
    Yeah, cmon, it's been a year almost :)
    KungFuKennyTXLegoguy
  • MrJacksonMrJackson Member Posts: 454
    @Toker what kind of glass did you use? Does the side glass sit in a groove that I assume you used a router for? And how did you attach the top pane? Does your coffee table open? I'm doing something almost identical but with the awesome Docking Bay 327 for the interior. The glass is what's hanging me up so that's why I ask.
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    MrJackson said:
    @Toker what kind of glass did you use? Does the side glass sit in a groove that I assume you used a router for? And how did you attach the top pane? Does your coffee table open? I'm doing something almost identical but with the awesome Docking Bay 327 for the interior. The glass is what's hanging me up so that's why I ask.
    I routed a groove in the top frame. The glass sits in the groove of the top wood frame. The glass itself was 0.25" thick and was the extra clear type. So far, it's been durable and has taken knocked over drinks, etc. The sides are plexiglass since I didn't need glass on the sides. It's also better since I have a dog and kids in case they hit the sides by accident. 

    I used some decorative brackets to "center" the entire top. There's nothing else holding the top on except for it's weight. Since it's heavy, it doesn't move and the brackets also keep it in place.




    stluxomniumAstrobricksWicksy80
  • MrJacksonMrJackson Member Posts: 454
    What are the final dimensions of the built MF?
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    edited May 2020
    MrJackson said:
    What are the final dimensions of the built MF?
    Lego's measurements are correct, EXCEPT for the width. The width is closer to 23.75" since the cockpit produces slightly. If you're going to make a table, give yourself some extra room. I went with 15" high x 38" length x 31" width for the internal measurement of the table. The final outside dimension of my table is 17" high x 41" length x 34" width.

    Lego's specs (with correction)
    - Measures over 8” (21cm) high, 33” (84cm) long and 22” (56cm) 23.75" (60cm) wide.


  • MrJacksonMrJackson Member Posts: 454


    @Toker thank you that's exactly what I was worried about. I'm sure you've seen this Docking Bay 327 that's on Rebrickable. The original version is a half a baseplate wider; several 16x32 baseplates form a row between the 48x48 ones. I was concerned about how wide it would end up being so I eliminated that row of 16x32s. I worked 4 years at an LBR store and actually brought this down one day to make sure the Falcon fit. I don't know if you can see the tape measure but it's 26.75" wide from the cut-ins of the side columns. It's 34.5" from the face of the doorway where Obi-Wan and Vader fight to the white ring surrounding the opening. So, it's going to be tight but doable.  If my memory serves me correctly from when I brought the docking bay to measure the Falcon, the elevator shaft is prettymuch directly below the cockpit but I don't remember there being any issues with the landing gear sitting on it. Total dimensions are 38 3/4" x 30 1/8" x ~14.5". 

    I actually have a router and router table that I got at Lowes (it's their brand) but it was so inexpensive it was stupid not to. And I'm not doing fancy woodworking projects where I would need a $400 Bosch router with a table that is another couple hundred bucks. I need to get the power miter saw from my father-in-law but he's using it for trim that he hasn't gotten to yet. If I hit $500 on a scratch off I'm just gonna buy one; I'm tired of relying on other people's tools. I'd really like to get this table built but I'm hamstrung until I get that miter saw. 
    Yo_dAWicksy80KungFuKenny
  • autolycusautolycus Member Posts: 1,431
    Toker said:
    MrJackson said:
    What are the final dimensions of the built MF?
    Lego's measurements are correct, EXCEPT for the width. The width is closer to 23.75" since the cockpit produces slightly. If you're going to make a table, give yourself some extra room. I went with 15" high x 38" length x 31" width for the internal measurement of the table. The final outside dimension of my table is 17" high x 41" length x 34" width.

    Lego's specs (with correction)
    - Measures over 8” (21cm) high, 33” (84cm) long and 22” (56cm) 23.75" (60cm) wide.


    When I finally get around to building a table (more likely having someone else build it for me), I think I'm going to shoot for internal dimensions of a hair over 30" wide x 40" long x 12-15" high. That way it should fit a 3x4 grid of 32x32 baseplates. My current thinking is that come November-December each year, I will shift the MF to a closet and do a Winter Village layout with a full oval train track. My current WV setup only allows for a few straight tracks and a quarter bend at each end. I would love to be able to actually motorize the train!
    panchox1560HeliportWicksy80KungFuKenny
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    edited May 2020
    MrJackson said:
    @Toker thank you that's exactly what I was worried about. I'm sure you've seen this Docking Bay 327 that's on Rebrickable. The original version is a half a baseplate wider; several 16x32 baseplates form a row between the 48x48 ones. I was concerned about how wide it would end up being so I eliminated that row of 16x32s. I worked 4 years at an LBR store and actually brought this down one day to make sure the Falcon fit. I don't know if you can see the tape measure but it's 26.75" wide from the cut-ins of the side columns. It's 34.5" from the face of the doorway where Obi-Wan and Vader fight to the white ring surrounding the opening. So, it's going to be tight but doable.
    That's the original suggestion that a friend had for me, but the width would have been more than I wanted due to the layout of my room. The Docking bay would make an incredible coffee table environment. But the biggest advantage of an enclosed table is... no dust. I had my MF on a table for about a year and it was a PITA to clean and dust.

    MrJackson said:
    I actually have a router and router table that I got at Lowes (it's their brand) but it was so inexpensive it was stupid not to. And I'm not doing fancy woodworking projects where I would need a $400 Bosch router with a table that is another couple hundred bucks. I need to get the power miter saw from my father-in-law but he's using it for trim that he hasn't gotten to yet. If I hit $500 on a scratch off I'm just gonna buy one; I'm tired of relying on other people's tools. I'd really like to get this table built but I'm hamstrung until I get that miter saw. 
    I'm in the middle of a house remodel, so I just took the plunge and bought a miter saw. I needed it for shiplap, but I'm also doing a lot more DIY woodworking projects now. My current obsession is burning wood and applying a stain and poly to coat it. I love the way it looks. I highly recommend the Dewalt DWS780 if it goes on sale around $400. The XPS worklight is by far the best and easiest way to see where your cuts are. The light shines a shadow of the blade, so it's exact every time. Otherwise, you can get the DWS779 and add a third party XPS worklight yourself for a little cheaper.

    autolycus said:
    When I finally get around to building a table (more likely having someone else build it for me), I think I'm going to shoot for internal dimensions of a hair over 30" wide x 40" long x 12-15" high. That way it should fit a 3x4 grid of 32x32 baseplates. My current thinking is that come November-December each year, I will shift the MF to a closet and do a Winter Village layout with a full oval train track. My current WV setup only allows for a few straight tracks and a quarter bend at each end. I would love to be able to actually motorize the train!
    I ended up just overlapping some bricks at the end to simulate hills and fix the dimensions. I think I went with 3 of the 32x32 grids and some 16x16 grids on the end. But 40" would be much easier for 4 of the 32x32.
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    If I did it all again, I probably would have torched the whole table and applied a grey or sterling stain. This is a bench I did with a honey maple stain.

    KungFuKennyWicksy80
  • MrJacksonMrJackson Member Posts: 454
    @Toker how much did that .25" glass piece cost? I have plenty of Lowes and Home Depot gift cards to use for the wood so I'm more worried about messing up while staining once everything has been cut and routed than I am the cost of the lumber. I assume that glass top is the most expensive component? Just wanted to know how much I should be prepared to expect. 

    Also, that bench looks totally awesome. 
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    The glass top was about $125 at a local shop. That was including the extra charge for better clarity.
  • MrJacksonMrJackson Member Posts: 454
    @Toker I finally bit the bullet and got the DWS779. The thing is a monster. Huge sale, too: down from $550 to $350, and I had $115 in gift cards. Too good of a price not to get it. Lookin forward to getting some of these projects goin. 
  • TokerToker Member Posts: 45
    edited May 2020
    MrJackson said:
    @Toker I finally bit the bullet and got the DWS779. The thing is a monster. Huge sale, too: down from $550 to $350, and I had $115 in gift cards. Too good of a price not to get it. Lookin forward to getting some of these projects goin. 
    You're going to love it. Good luck with your projects!

    Definitely look into the XPS LED upgrade. No more guessing where the blade will contact.
    https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/miter-saw-upgrade-kit-dewalt

    Zero clearance inserts. Really helps with keeping the center channel clear and also with chip outs.
    https://www.infinitytools.com/z-c-i-for-dewalt-miter-saws-2

    gmonkey76
  • Yo_dAYo_dA Member Posts: 109
    ^ That’s amazing!
  • colaycolay Member Posts: 547
    What are peoples thoughts on the new Mos Eisley set inside a table with the MilF?

    Will the 'scale' of the two be right? The base of any display then mainly tan bricks, as sand?
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