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LEGO train automation and custom parts - 3D printed!
As discussed in the thread 'We're bringing back the Monorail', I am creating a new conversation that can be dedicated to trains. Just like with the monorail we (4DBrix) are looking at making 3D printed accessories, switch motors, sensors, etc. that can complement train layouts. I welcome all suggestions! So far I have heard that we should make custom track sizes and straight narrow gauge track sections.
We are now finalizing our track switch motor - which will be available once we have our custom filament in the dark bluish gray.

We are also working on a beta version of a train / monorail layout automation software (called nControl) - it contains a track planner which automatically gives you an inventory of the segments you used. It is a bit different from a traditional track planner as it allows you to simulate the automation on screen without having the actual components. The ultimate goal is to use it as a control center to control every aspect of your train layout.
Here is a screenshot: on top you have the track layout, at the bottom you have the tiles to control the track. It can handle both train and monorail layouts.

If you are interested in testing the beta version (for now Windows only), let me know and I'll send you a link. Eventually the software will be downloadable for free on 4dbrix.com
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Another could thing, while I'm asking for the moon: the opposite feature, where the train-control software can emit IR signals to the trains to make them start/stop. (Or better, a replacement for the IR sensor that can receive some other kind of signal that is controlled by the PC).
The same thing for the switch motors, we cannot use the IR protocol. Initially it will be with PC/MAC, eventually we'll try to migrate the software to phones and tablets. Another option is to create our own remotes. Remote controlled sounds good, but keep in mind that you will need a battery box next to each device. From that perspective cables do have an advantage.
What do others think?
Would it be possible to integrate bluetooth support for S-Brick?
We did implement it to run a couple of tests and discovered that IR is not be best way to automate train layouts. The main problem is that IR remotes are very 'directional' meaning that you really need to point the remote at the receiver. That's not such a big issue when you have a hand held remote and a small layout (that's the situation when you buy a standard LEGO train set) but it doesn't work well when the remote is 'static', i.e. in a fixed position and controlled by a computer/tablet. It can only control the devices that are directly in the line of sight. IR doesn't go trough objects either, so if you have large structures in your layout they will block the signals. The range of IR is also limited and the reliability goes down with the range.
IR is a cheap solution for remote controls but it only works fine for certain applications. It's a great solution for what LEGO intended it for but it's not really suitable for automating advanced/AFOL LEGO train layouts... Radio wave based control is much better: it's omnidirectional, it has a larger range, it can go through certain objects and it has become pretty affordable too. So we're working on a solution based on that...
My wallet is whimpering already...
https://www.4dbrix.com/downloads
The first version has a track planner for both trains and monorail. It also has a simulation mode that allows you to explore the automation on your own layout. The current version supports tiles for track switch automation, train traffic lights and sound effects.
I have finalized my straight narrow gauge track design and I'm currently printing the first batch of tracks in black and dark bluish gray (the picture is a bit over-exposed).
I also designed a narrow gauge cross track so you could build layouts that go beyond a simple loop. But I was wondering which types of wheel you're using for narrow gauge trains? The reason I'm asking is the following. Cross tracks need a little gap in their tracks, otherwise the trains can't pass. This gives a little bump when the train goes over it. In my standard gauge cross track I added a raised section (see below) like LEGO does in their switches to prevent this 'bump'. The height of the raised section depends on the shape of the wheels. I would like to do the same for the narrow gauge cross track but I also want to be sure I'm not creating a problem for a certain type of wheel that is used for some narrow gauge trains. I don't think there is a standard wheel like for the standard gauge trains, right ? Please let me know which wheels you use or any other thoughts / suggestions you might have. Thank you!
For all those that want to use the 4-wide track, what were you thinking of to power it?
honestly, doubt I would use a cross track for anything I'd be making with narrow gauge. A switch would be more useful
Nice track and something I would consider buying (when I can get around to building my MOC that is)
Just as I thought, it seems like they moved it over to a standard monorail base with motor and just hid the bat box in one of the cars.
Thanks for the feedback! Both wheels have a 3.2 mm flange (= one plate thickness). It thus seems that LEGO standardized its train (like) wheels and we can consider a 3.2 mm flange as 'standard'. That means can make a 'bump reducer' that works for both types of wheel.
Thanks for the feedback!
I got some 'traction tires' and updated my medium-sized train wheels for the narrow gauge trains. The pictures below show them in comparison to the LEGO train wheels. Both 3D printed wheels are identical, but the one on the left has a traction tire and the other one not.
This is what I modified compared to the previous version:
Any thoughts or comments ?
I take it the thickness where the axle fits is 1/2 a technic beam?
The wheels are 4mm thick. What do you mean with 'massive lip'; do you mean the part in red on the image below ? I took roughly the same 'lip width' as the standard train wheel. The central part is lowered with the same amount as in case of the small LEGO wheel. Do you think it would look better if I raised the central part, the part with the axle connection ?
I'm also going to change the traction tire, some EB members had concerns about the durability of the elastic band and suggested a rubber o-ring.
This is not a final product, so all suggestions, questions and feedback are highly appreciated !
Indeed, it just looks weird to me. While I can understand it on the smallest lego wheel, I think the thinner lip as seen on the 'standard' train wheel looks more appropriate.
The other reason for my concern is those converting the wheels with 'cranked' drive gear using this part as it won't clear the lip: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2854#T=S&O={}
Ok, thanks for the feedback!
I just checked it again and the lip thickness is actually the same as for the standard train wheel. I guess it shows less there because of the spokes. I cannot do the same with this wheel because there's no space for it.
I got some o-rings that work, but I'm going to look for slightly thicker ones. When I adapt the model for the o-ring I'm going to reduce the lip thickness so we can see what that gives.
In the video, the wire of the light comes out at the side, but that's because this is a 'traffic light' on its side. I'm planning to make a variant with cable coming out at the side; so if you put the light on its side like in the video the cable comes out at the bottom.
One question: how are you planning to make the curves for you 3-stud wide track ? Is that possible with standard LEGO parts ? Have you built anything or is it just conceptual at this point ?
FYI, The first batch of narrow gauge track is now available in our bricklink store
http://www.bricklink.com/store/home.page?p=4DBrix&utm_content=globalnav#/shop
FYI, the first batch of standard train track is now available in our bricklink store
http://www.bricklink.com/store/home.page?p=4DBrix&utm_content=globalnav#/shop
When will the EU store get their stock?