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@madforLEGO I'm sure you're right about the effectiveness of the glow material wearing down after time, I am looking for a confirmation from someone who knows way more than I do, as well.
From a Google search....
In this special case of phosphorescence, the absorbed light energy transitions to a higher energy state, usually to something called a “triplet state”. Because of this, the energy can get trapped in this triplet state and will take time to return to the lower energy state. In certain phosphorescent compounds the lifetime of the triplets can last minutes or even hours, allowing these compounds to effectively store light energy in the form of slowly degrading excited electron states. So basically, the longer the triplet lifetime, the longer it will glow, and vice-verse.
For the purposes of your experiment, it is also worth noting that it would take different phosphorescent chemicals different amounts of time to 'charge up' - this is why they can glow well into the night if they have been in the sun all day. Let them sit in the light for a long time and then observe the length of glow to check, it will last much longer. It may be the light you are using promotes electrons in one chemical and doesn't in the other too - use sunlight to get the best results as it has a fuller spectrum.
Also, it is possible that the older ghost has a more scratched up/dirty/faded surface. This will reduce the amount of light penetrating into the plastic and reaching the phosphorescent chemical - reducing the glow maybe.
That's for glow sticks. It doesn't make them brighter for longer though, it is slightly dimmer for longer.
From a science point of view it is possible that this would work for phosphorescent chemicals. The electron promotion energy requirement will be tied to the bond lengths and stability of the compound - although I don't know how much this makes a difference. At lower temperatures it would stabilise these conditions, which could in theory mean that the promoted states are more stable, and the emitted light is at a more consistent wavelength, and/or contained in the visible region. This could make it appear brighter and last longer, but I fail to see how this is useful as it would only be true inside the freezer with a light source that didn't warm up the plastic. If you took it out it would warm up and any benefit would be lost. Not exactly the most practical solution and I can't imagine it would be a procedure that LEGO recommended.