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Need advice/ideas on mounting system for Lego sign

bkprbkpr Texas, USAMember Posts: 295
edited February 2016 in Building and Techniques
Hey everyone. I'm planning on creating a Lego version of our company logo for a new office. (A bit more detail in this thread). I need some ideas/advice for mounting it to the wall, specifically how to design/build the backside of it to allow for easy mounting. I don't have an LDD model yet (am working on it over the next couple of days) but I can give some details of what I'm thinking. Note: I've never built anything like this before, so if there's a glaringly obvious flaw in my plan, please make yourself heard! 
  • Logo design can be seen on above-linked thread
  • Roughly 80–100cm width
  • Constructing out of mostly 2x4 bricks, with some slopes and curves
  • I'm planing on making it 2 studs deep (one layer of bricks).
  • I will have some led lighting strips behind stuck to the wall for an backlit effect similar to this sign so it will have to hang off the wall by ~4 studs
  • Ideally it's removable from the wall so we can make tweaks to the sign over time, like adding minifigs and some architectural elements. For this to happen the sign may need to break into a few horizontal sections.
I have one idea for how to build the mounting system so far:

At strategic points throughout the sign — maybe near each corner of the hexagon — I'll have some 2x6 bricks pointing directly backwards giving me my 4 stud clearance from the wall. These six "prongs" will simply rest on six matching hardware brackets I put into the wall, maybe with a 2x2 plate glued to them so the 2x6 bricks can 'lock' onto the wall bracket and not easily slide forward. I may need more of these brackets along the bottom edge to act as a sort of shelf holding the majority of the weight.

To counter the 2x6 brick sagging under the weight I'll need to create some technic-like braces with black axle-plug pieces running up and down the backside of the sign. If done correctly and with the appropriate amount, these should reduce the amount of flex and sag. <-- but I'm really not sure of this yet because I don't know how much it'll weigh yet.

I will link LDD files or upload images when I have them over the next couple of days. 
if anyone has any advice or ideas on how this can be done better, please let me know. Better still, if you've come across something like this before and can provide some links for me to check out, that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for reading my long post.


  • joel4motionjoel4motion United KingdomMember Posts: 959
    edited February 2016
    A small part of our company is sign writing. From an ease of production POV I'd CNC each letter out of acrylic/poly carb and use stand offs to set your depth. Can the Lego be glued to the acrylic? This would mean it was a standard sign covered in Lego but would  be stronger by far and easier to mount.

    To make it even easier id then mount it onto one large piece of acrylic. This would mean only a few fixings into the wall and would allow you to easily hide all the LED cables. It would be on stand offs as well so very easy to remove/adapt.

    If you need a drawing done or anything doesn't make sense then ask away.
  • bkprbkpr Texas, USAMember Posts: 295
    Thanks for your reply. I want to see if I can create it in Lego first before I explore other options.

    Also EDIT to original post: I'm only looking to do the icon and NOT the letters.
  • bkprbkpr Texas, USAMember Posts: 295
    edited February 2016
    Ok, here's the rough layout I'm looking at, a giant 2-stud deep panel, 104 studs wide (811.2mm). I'm using a 1:1 grid so the logo looks stretched but It'll build out to be a pretty close to equilateral hexagon.

    This is the first step in the process, which is get an idea of cost by counting the pieces and getting a cost from Bricklink.

    Once the boss approves, I'll begin work in LDD, and start to incorporate some bracing systems for stability and strength, and the mounting system.

    Any thoughts are welcomed!
  • kiki180703kiki180703 Montreal, CanadaMember Posts: 1,049
    @bkpr Isn't the color a tad bright compared to your logo? ;)
  • bkprbkpr Texas, USAMember Posts: 295
    Heh, just a tad.
  • bkprbkpr Texas, USAMember Posts: 295
    Update: I've redesigned some sections and begun constructing the strength system. The current weight is ~2.9kg.

    With the addition of technic lift arms, I can potentially use these for a mounting system. If anyone knows of some appropriate technic parts which could snap into the technic pegs to allow several studs (4–8) clearance from the wall, please let me know.

    Also, if anyone sees any faults in the design as it stands, speak up!

  • masterX244masterX244 GermanyMember Posts: 524
    there are technic bricks that are rectangles with a hole inside (
    use those linked to the supporting structure (tip: try to make some horizontal connections between the beams) to link everything to wall hooks

    ENough connections between the bricks should help keeping all the weight

  • bkprbkpr Texas, USAMember Posts: 295
    Thanks for your thoughts. I was hoping the technic lift arms would be enough to help the pice not come apart due to gravity as long as neighbouring lift arms shared a hole on the same 1x4 technic brick. 

    Mounting!! I'm thinking to hang the final sign in a similar way you hang a painting. Three mount points: top center, top-left corner, top-right corner, and have the vertical beams take car of keeping the blocks below from falling due to pesky gravity.

    I've designed some mounts, however 1. I'm not sure three will be strong enough (I may have to add one in each of the bottom corners), and 2. I think I'm over designing them. You're looking at the back side which will be against the wall. For most of these I'm considering some sort of sturdy hook-screws in the wall and hanging the lego mounts from them.

    If you have a better solution, let me know!

    Don't know how to align the below lift arms into the yellow mounts, but imagine there are two cross beams running through the mounts and lift arms in the right place.

  • masterX244masterX244 GermanyMember Posts: 524
    ^ connection was meant between the different strips of beams. those ""segments" could split at the widest gaps at the bottom and at a wide gap at the top left.
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